A model sports a Ritu Kumar creation. People prefer simpler prints and light fabrics that are elegant, says Kumar.
Street-style, easy luxury is going to be the buzzword in runway shows this year. Until a few years ago, designers would dictate the right length of a skirt or the perfect pair of shoes to go with a gown; however, fashion is getting more democratic now. So much so that one could sport a shiny pair of sneakers with a glamorous, lacy dress and no one would care.
Right from Alexander Wang to Louis Vuitton and Oscar de la Renta, everyone is embracing simpler themes with functional designs for their collections. Running high on retro vibes, most fashion houses are going for arty pop, metallic colours, pleats, polka dots, sheer fabrics and ruffles. While pink, yellow and silver would be high on popularity, pale blue, beige and other soft colours will also have their moment this year. “Be it parties or picnics, people want to look cool in everyday wear now. So you could pair a bomber jacket with a dress and slip-ons and it would be perfectly in sync with the trend these days,” says Priya Sachdev, director of TSG International, which retails upcoming brands through its online portal Rock N Shop. “Bags with personalised stickers or cartoon tags are also high on demand. Today’s luxury is all about casual cool.”
In resonance with the millennials, fashion is getting less finicky and less cumbersome. “Most of our online shoppers are youngsters who want to look stylish and fashionable, but they don’t want to spend too much on the big luxury brands. So, we showcase a good mix of Indian and international designers on Rock N Shop,” says Sachdev. “The average value of an order at our portal is anything between Rs 25,000 and Rs 80,000. Besides Hemant and Nandita, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, we have Katherine Kwei, Barbara Bonner, Oscar de la Renta, Dion Lee and Edie Parker.”
A Classique Hora Mundi by Breguet.
Going by the huge popularity of athleisure last year, fashion houses like Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Balenciaga and Stella McCartney are now rolling out seductive luxury sportswear lines. “One has to take this category seriously. You not only have the big luxury brands jumping on the bandwagon but also have traditional sportswear brands like Nike and Adidas collaborating with brands like Stella McCartney and Balmain,” says Sachdev. “They are presenting the best of both worlds—fashion and fitness—through an innovative product range endorsed by the likes of Beyonce and Kanye West.”
The sway towards relaxed luxury wear is encouraging even traditional brands like Corneliani to experiment with newer fabrics and pragmatic designs. “Fusion wear is the new approach to bridge the gap between the world of business wear and luxury casual garments. Fabrics that are super soft and extremely breathable will be high on demand,” says Prem Dewan, retail head, OSL Luxury Collections Pvt Ltd-Corneliani. “At Corneliani, we would continue to offer de-structured and multifunctional fabrics, creating ultralight and extraordinarily elastic garments that are both practical as well as attractive.”
Minimalism is a prominent theme for the Indian ethnic wear, too. Florals and tiny intricate detailing will be a crowd favourite this year. With young brides getting more experimental, one would see a lot of crop tops and off-shoulder tops paired with saris and lehengas. “People no longer find extensive gold detailing appealing and prefer simpler prints and light fabrics that are classic and elegant. Comfort and simplicity are preferred over flair,” says designer Ritu Kumar.
Timely pieces: A Hublot Classic Fusion Berluti Scritto Platinum.
While most luxury brands in India reeled under the demonetisation drive and the new PAN card rule that forced buyers to furnish their bank account details for any transaction over Rs 2 lakh, women’s accessories, jewellery, watches and fragrances turned out to be the saviours for the market last year. “The luxury watch business took a hit of almost 40 per cent in the first quarter of 2016. However, by April, most wealthy customers had warmed up to the idea of swiping credit cards along with PAN details,” says Anil Madan, director, Johnson Watch Company. “There was a lull in sales post the demonetisation drive but now the market is heading towards stabilisation. People are going for sophisticated designs and elegant timepieces; they don’t want to be seen as pompous anymore.”
Subtlety is the order of the day even for luxury watch brands like Hublot, which has always been known for its big, bold and funky design. Last year, the brand collaborated with the Parisian luxury leather brand Berluti to present the Classic Fusion Berluti timepiece. Available in a black and brown version, the watches are limited to 500 and 250 pieces, respectively, and priced at Rs 20 lakh (approx).
The future of luxury is going to be dominated by visionary brands which can exploit the power of the internet, says Diana Verde Nieto, founder of Positive Luxury. “Mobile messaging apps like Snapchat have been embraced by brands wanting to please young luxury consumers hungry for access to catwalk shows, ad campaign stars and limited edition products,” she says. “Brands are tapping into the ability of services like WhatsApp and Facebook Messenger to create exclusive customer relationships. Millennials have an appetite for luxury, but the way they buy is changing, and technology is going to play a significant role here.”
TOP PICKS/ FASHION & ACCESSORIES
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS LADY ARPELS BALLERINE ENCHANTÉE D’ORIENT WATCH: Following in the footsteps of the ballerinas and fairies, the timepiece perpetuates the tradition of fluid movement, lightness and refinement. The time on the dial is displayed by the movement of the ballerina’s tutu dress. The timepiece is limited to just 22 pieces.
HERMES TIES: The legendary silk ties from Hermes define meticulous craftsmanship and luxurious materials. At least a dozen designers work on the pattern and colour, and once the look is finalised, they hand-stencil it onto silk.
BRIONI SUITS: A favourite of Donald Trump and James Bond, the Brioni suits are made of the super-luxurious Vanquish II fabric, produced by UK-based Dormeuil. They make just 100 of these handmade suits a year and the suit’s stitching is made of white gold.
LEIBER PRECIOUS ROSE BAG: Designed in the shape of a rose, this bag is priced at $92,000 and is made of 1,169 sapphires and diamonds. There is just one unique piece available in the world.
A VINTAGE ROLEX DAYTONA REF 6263: Touted as the most desired Paul Newman Daytona, the Reference 6263 with its panda dial commands the top tier at auctions. Reportedly, there are less than 20 black dial screw-down Paul Newmans available in the market. So when they come up for sale, they do extremely well.
