Nachos, tacos, burritos, enchiladas, tamales, and churros – this is what Latin American cuisine is largely understood to be in India. The Tex-Mex kind! However, this is now changing with restaurateurs bringing Latin America’s diverse and vibrant gastronomy, beyond the usual, to India, with Latoya in New Delhi being the latest one.
“Not just India, the predominant focus even in the US is on Tex-Mex, which is what the rest of the world adopted. It’s changing slowly, and we think Latoya manages to synthesise the Latin American experience very well for the Indian audience,” says founder Saket Agarwal about his new restaurant, which is located at Eldeco Centre, the new happening dining destination in Malviya Nagar.
Drinks beyond the obvious
I start with Coco Loco, a smokey, citrusy drink made with mezcal, coconut, liqueur, and pineapple. While tequila and mezcal feature prominently on the menu, it also has pisco, cachaca, and Mexican beer, taking the bar programme beyond the usual. It also has a dash of sustainability, as leftover wine is repurposed into the foam for Coco Loco, and kitchen discards—tomato stem and chilli off-cuts—are made into an in-house spicy salt used as rim salt for Papi Chulo—a bold spicy and savoury drink made with tequila, cucumber, cilantro, jalapeno and Yuzu—the biggest seller on the menu, I am told.
Beyond the Tex-Mex food experience
“[For the food menu], we’ve drawn inspiration from Mexican, Peruvian, Argentine, Cuban, and Brazilian cuisines,” says head chef Arun Karara. “The theme centres on flavours that are familiar to the Indian palate, with ingredients like chillies and lime providing a sense of comfort and connection,” he adds.
While the menu offers staples such as tacos and burritos, there are Peruvian delicacies with a Nikkei twist and Argentine fare that has more Eurocentric influences. All our dishes use a combination of locally sourced ingredients and quality imports,” says Agarwal.
I start with something called Patatas Bravas, made with habanera-dusted crispy potato shells and tomato salsa picante, offering an interesting take on the basic potato. While the tacos, tostadas, and burrito, dishes Indians are better accustomed to, feature prominently on the menu, it’s foods from the Peruvian coastline that stand out, such as ceviche and Nikkei, or Peruvian, sushi. There’s Brazilian Moqueca, a flavourful curry with tropical notes, and also dishes borrowed reflecting Argentinian steakhouses.
While Latoya’s menu is extensive, interesting, and balanced, the cocktail programme is strong. The meal cannot be complete without something sweet, and a coffee caramel pave is what I go for.
Agarwal shares that the interiors “reflect the warmth and vibrancy of Latin American culture, featuring luxurious textures, stained-glass accents, and handcrafted murals”. It also offers a mix of quiet outdoor dining and a peppy indoor one, making it a good choice whether one is looking for a relaxed meal, a drink after work, or a place to party and let oneself loose.
