There are some elements that catch the eye when walking down the streets of Moscow. Among them are the dogs of different breeds, shapes and sizes, adults moving around on roller skates, kick scooters or skateboards and a number of musicians entertaining passersby.
The last bit caught my attention. Moscow's love for music can be seen, or rather heard, at nearly every metro station and subway, and on roadsides near important landmarks. It has been a treat for fans arriving for the World Cup.
Vocalists belt out songs from various eras, languages and genres, while playing a variety of instruments. A visually challenged person playing an accordion, a violionist-cellist pair playing their rendition of the Game of Thrones soundtrack and a percussionist duo improvising and drumming on buckets and poles on the pavement... you can see it all in Moscow.
Nobody needs to be told that music has a soothing effect on the mind. Amid the hustle and bustle of the highly urbanised Moscow, office-goers and students alike take a moment to pause and admire the work of these artistes before contributing their bit. The artiste usually gives a nod with a smile to show gratitude before the passerby goes on his or her way.
Busking in Moscow is common and these are people who make a living out of it. They keep a bag in front of them and allow those who appreciate their tunes to put some spare change into these bags. Some use it as a springboard to further their musical career, like Anna, a keyboardist who studies music.
She politely tells me that she does not have much time to talk, but it doesn't matter. Because when a voice as sweet as hers fills the air at the Arbatskaya metro station, it is worth just standing and drinking it in. This station is beside the Old Arbat Street which was once a breeding ground of buskers.
Back in 2016, the government began cracking down on buskers on this famous road and other such places, forcing them to get a licence to play before doing so. In order to do so, they had to pass an audition paneled by several celebrity singers and the police assigned designated places for these musicians to ply their trade.
This was apparently done to stop music and art related to underworld anti-social elements from spreading in the city. But the musicians saw this as a means of gagging any form of dissent against the establishment. They held silent protests with their mouth and instruments taped, but to no effect.
The police weren't too strict about it, though. They would sometimes fine unlicensed performers or confiscate their instruments, but some officers would let them be, either out of compassion or because they were promised a share of the gratuities received.
Though not much has changed in terms of the law since then, these performers have come out in full force since the World Cup season began. One local told me that he was surprised that there were so many musicians allowed to play, with or without licence, but the police don't seem to be interfering, probably because the local administraton realised that tourists are actually enjoying the music and it adds to the image of the city.
I ask Anna whether she has a licence, and she smiles, shakes her head and puts her finger on her lips so as to imply that it is a secret. Nobody is complaining, Anna, play on!
