Phuket: One island, multiple journeys

From Old Town’s heritage shophouses to Phang Nga Bay’s limestone cliffs, Phuket, Thailand’s largest island, is more than just a beach escape

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The eight-year-old in our group sat wide-eyed, cradling a lion cub in his arms — astonished that such a thing was even possible. It could have happened only in Thailand, and more specifically, at Lion Café near Phuket’s bustling Sunday Night Market. The street throbbed with food stalls and music outside while children and adults marvelled at the surreal, not-so-wild encounter.

That moment summed up what Phuket does best: it surprises and flexes. Thailand’s largest island is a place where families, couples, and solo travellers alike can enjoy varied holidays: restful and adventurous, indulgent and cultural, intimate and wide-ranging. A week of spa rituals and beach sunsets works for some. Cooking lessons, rainforest hikes, and visits to sanctuaries are ideal for others. Children, meanwhile, find magic no matter the kind of holiday: in holding a cub, learning to surf, or digging moats in the sand.

“Phuket is like several destinations in one,” said a guide in Old Town, gesturing at a row of pastel-hued shopfronts. “In the morning, you can hike to a waterfall and follow that up with noodles in a market. By evening, you can enjoy sundowners on the beach. Everyone finds their rhythm here.”

His words hit home: the island is a flexiscape, a place where experiences shift effortlessly to fit the people who arrive.

Lodged at the uber-luxe Anantara Phuket Mai Khao Villas, I saw firsthand how seamlessly the island caters to different needs. Adults were drawn to the calm of the spa, where traditional Thai massages helped tackle the tiredness of travel. Teenagers discovered the thrill of learning to surf, or joining Thai cooking classes to master pad thai and green curry. Younger children were content with beach days or the simple joy of feeding rescued elephants at ethical sanctuaries.

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That evening, as we wondered which of the many in-house restaurants to try, we found ourselves at Tiffin by La Sala. Part of the Michelin Guide, it offered authentic Indian cuisine with an extensive à la carte menu — from curries and a tiffin chaat platter to smoky dishes from the tandoor oven. Everyone returned to the room with their bellies – and hearts – full!

Over the next few days, we discovered that Phuket’s heart lies in its ability to offer activities beyond the beach. One morning, we decided to take a boat into Phang Nga Bay, where limestone cliffs loomed over jade waters and kayaks made their way through caves into hidden lagoons. The next night, we wandered through the Sunday Night Market in Old Town, snacking on satay skewers, mango pancakes, coconut ice cream, and pineapple slushies. Around us, Sino-Portuguese architecture framed narrow lanes strung with lights.

There’s plenty for history buffs to discover. Baan Chinpracha House, with its Italian floor tiles, shuttered windows, and antique furniture, offers a glimpse into the life of a wealthy Chinese family in the early 20th century. The exhibits at Thai Hua Museum, housed in a 1930s manor, trace the island’s cultural and economic past. The island’s most important Buddhist temple, Wat Chalong, greets visitors with the fragrance of incense, golden statues glowing in the light, and the soft murmur of monks in prayer.”

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The guide revealed that an extravagant spectacle was ours for the viewing at the Siam Niramit show, where performers in dazzling costumes compress centuries of Thai history and folklore into a single evening. Theatre, history, and mythology rolled into one!

“It’s the kind of holiday where no one feels left out,” my friend said one evening, sipping a fresh coconut as the children frolicked in the pool.

The next day, we decided to take it easy at the hotel. Set beside a stretch of quiet beach, the private villas and shaded pools gave the children space to play while we adults enjoyed a long unhurried meal. Indulgent and intimate, it felt like the kind of stay that anchors a family holiday.

With so much to do – or not to do – it’s no surprise that Phuket strongly resists being buttonholed into any particular category. It combined numerous journeys into one: mornings of laughter on the beach, mid-mornings of healing at the spa, afternoons in thick rainforest or wandering through historic houses, and evenings at buzzing markets or spectacular shows.

As we boarded the plane, the children listed the one special thing that would stand out when Phuket came to mind. The 14-year-old swore by the beach; the three-year-old naturally preferred sand. The eight-year-old, not surprisingly, voted for the lion cub. For me, it was neither the sunrise or the sundowner; it was Phuket’s ability to be many journeys at once.

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