After boarding the train to Sawai Madhopur, I was filled with excitement for my Ranthambore safari—a place I had dreamed of visiting since childhood. During the two-hour journey from Jaipur, I chose not to stay huddled inside the coach but instead stood near the doors, to enjoy the view of the passing scenery outside.
My eyes wandered over vast fields and houses built close to the railway tracks. Occasionally, I spotted a lone male nilgai or a herd grazing peacefully alongside cattle, in the fields. Throughout the journey, Rajasthan—India’s largest state—offered me some unique glimpses of its people, culture, and landscapes.
Alighting from the train at Sawai Madhopur Railway Station, I took an autorickshaw to my accommodation. Hotel Vinayak, a property owned by the Government of Rajasthan, is a spacious and well-maintained hotel situated on the road leading to Ranthambore National Park. Just 5 km from the railway station, it is an ideal stay for families and groups.
I had booked a tented stay for two days. After completing the check-in formalities, I wandered around the premises, soaking in the calm and peaceful ambience. The serenity was enhanced by the occasional meowing calls of two peacocks.
Later that night, after dinner, I went back to my tent. The temperature had dropped to a chilling 8°C, making the night particularly cold. With two safaris scheduled for the next day, I fell into a deep and undisturbed sleep—dead to the world.
Ranthambore: The land of tigers
This place needs no introduction—especially for someone with a passion for wildlife and tigers. One of the most iconic tiger reserves in the country, Ranthambore became India’s seventh tiger reserve in 1973 under Project Tiger, an initiative by the Government of India. The park, home to a substantial population of tigers, is one of the most sought-after destinations to witness these majestic felines in their natural habitat.
Unlike in other reserves, tigers in Ranthambore are frequently spotted during the daytime. Due to the park’s unique vegetation and their acclimatization to human presence, these tigers are more visible, bold, and well-documented than many other tiger populations in India.
Tigers in Ranthambore are known for exhibiting strange behaviours. A male tiger named Zalim (T-25) defied its natural instincts by taking care of two orphan cubs after the death of their mother. He not only shared his meals but also taught them essential hunting and survival skills, ensuring they could thrive in the harsh wilderness.
Typically, female tigers are known to raise cubs, teaching them the skills needed to survive in the wild. Male tigers, on the other hand, are known to abandon their offspring after birth and may even kill them if given a chance. However, this was the first ever documented case of a male tiger ‘playing the role of a mother’ in the wild.
Apart from tigers, the park is home to leopards, sloth bears, striped hyenas, caracal, sambar deer, Spotted deer, wild boar, Nilgai, golden jackal, Hanuman langur, Marsh aka mugger crocodile and a wide variety of birds.
Machli, the legendary tigress
The park has been home to some of the most iconic tigers, including Machli (T-16), famously known as the “Queen of Ranthambore” and the world’s most photographed tigress. Born in 1996, she was the longest-lived wild tigress and was comfortable in the presence of humans.
During her reign, she was a dominant force, controlling vast territories across multiple zones of the national park. In addition to being called the “Queen of Ranthambore”, she also held other titles, such as the “Lady of the Lakes” and the “Crocodile Killer”—the latter earned after she killed a massive 14-foot mugger crocodile in a fierce battle.
She was one of the most prominent tigresses responsible for repopulating the tiger populations in both Ranthambore and Sariska, as tigers carrying her genes still rule and roam the forests of both parks.
Beyond her ecological contributions, Machli played a significant role in boosting the economy. It is estimated that her popularity contributed Rs 75 crore per year to Rajasthan’s tourism industry. Recognizing her impact on wildlife tourism and conservation, the Government of India honored her with a ‘Lifetime Achievement Award.’ Additionally, to commemorate her legacy, the Indian government issued a special postal cover and stamp in her name. She remained a true legend and celebrity of the park until her demise in 2016.
A blissful morning safari
The next day, I woke up early, eager to gear up for the safari. After completing my morning rituals, I waited in the hotel lounge for the canter bus to arrive. Soon, the guide entered the lounge, and together, we boarded the bus, ready for the adventure ahead. The bus, already carrying some tourists, picked up a few more from various resorts and hotels along the route to the national park.
Since it was morning, there were fewer people on the roads, and the bazaars of Sawai Madhopur were less crowded. During the journey, I witnessed some impressive landscapes with old architectural structures. The bus drove for half an hour before reaching the entrance of the national park at Zone 06—‘Forest ChowkiRajbag’—at 7.25am.
There, I saw several canter buses lined up for formal checks. After completing all the necessary formalities, our bus proceeded straight into the jungle.
A canter bus is a 20-seater open vehicle used in many tiger reserves across India, including Ranthambore. These buses operate in various zones of the national park and come with a driver and a guide or naturalist.
For budget travellers or those visiting in groups, canter buses are an ideal choice as they are cost-effective and can navigate rough terrains with ease, offering a better chance to spot wildlife. However, their limited ability to manoeuvre through narrow trails is the only drawback I find with these buses.
After traversing a few furlongs, the bus reached a large arched entrance gate (Pali Darwaja). The guide mentioned that this is one of the many spots where tigers are frequently sighted. I have seen pictures of tigers standing atop this arch on social and print media. These images give the impression of them welcoming tourists to their territory.
Unfortunately, at that time there were no tigers atop the arch or anywhere nearby. However, his words proved true. As the bus emerged from the aisle of the arch, we spotted fresh pugmarks imprinted on the trail, indicating that a tiger had passed through the area just a few hours earlier.
Out of the 10 zones in Ranthambore, Zone 6 offers a high chance of sighting tigers. This zone has a landscape of vast grasslands interspersed with a few trees, surrounded by rocky hills. It is evident that these areas are frequently visited by the park’s herbivores, and naturally, tigers follow them.
Zone 6 was once ruled by a large dominant male tiger named Ustad (T-24), who gained notoriety and frequently made headlines. Apart from Zone 6, he also held control over Zones 1 and 2, facing no significant competition from rival males. During his reign, he was involved in the deaths of four humans, which led the authorities to relocate him to Sajjan Garh Zoo in Udaipur.
His translocation sparked widespread discontent among wildlife experts and conservationists, who argued that he had never ventured beyond his territory to attack humans and was unfairly labelled a man-eater.
In response, protests erupted on social media, and supporters organised candle marches and rallies, elevating Ustad’s status to an international level.
He remains the only tiger to have drawn the attention of the Jaipur and New Delhi High Courts, as well as the Honorable Supreme Court of India. He died in 2022 due to cancer.
We traversed the forest trail alongside numerous other canter buses and gypsies. Along the way, we spotted herds of spotted deer and saw a few Hanuman langurs perched atop the trees. The morning mist gradually lifted, allowing sunlight to pierce through the canopy and touch the forest floor.
(Left) A view of Rathambode; (Right) The Rufous Treepie bird | Gautam Bhaskar
After driving for over an hour, the canter buses halted at a refreshment stop equipped with toilets. I alighted from the bus and captured some landscape shots. Nearby, langurs were seen leaping onto some canters, curiously inspecting items left by tourists.
However, one bird caught everyone’s attention—a Rufous Treepie, a species of treepie native to India. Initially perched on a tree, it soon flew down and settled on one of the handrails of our canter bus. Completely unfazed by human presence, the bird appeared to relish the attention, effortlessly posing for the cameras. Amused by its boldness, I seized the opportunity to take some close-up shots, admiring how comfortable it was in front of tourists.
After spending nearly 15 minutes there, we headed back into the jungle. Along the way, we spotted a wild boar foraging on the forest floor. As we moved along a trail flanked by dense vegetation on both sides, both the driver and the guide suddenly pointed toward a dense patch of foliage where something yellow lay in the middle of an elevated area.
After hours of searching desperately for a sighting, excitement filled the air as they finally exclaimed, ‘Tiger!’
The tiger did not reveal itself fully, as the dense green foliage obscured our view. As soon as the sighting was communicated to others, buses and gypsies rushed in, eager to catch a glimpse of the big cat.
I struggled to take pictures as our bus kept moving forward, making way for other vehicles to get a better view. The constant jolting of the bus made my task even more difficult, frustrating my efforts to capture the perfect shot. Still, I managed to take a few pictures. I showed my pictures to my fellow travellers, who had asked me to show them a picture of that tiger.
I approached the guide and asked about the tiger’s profile. He told me that its name is Noor, numbered as T-39, an old and dominant tigress of the park that controls Zone 6. Noor was once the mate of Ustad, has sired many cubs, and remains one of the most prominent tigers still alive, even becoming a mother at the age of 15.
Despite her calm temperament toward tourists, Noor does not tolerate intruders—especially those of her own family, as she once chased a leopard up a tree. The leopard’s agility and tree-climbing ability saved its life that day, while Noor’s bulkiness proved to be a disadvantage.
As we patiently waited, the tigress remained sprawled on the ground, completely oblivious to the noise and presence of the canter buses and gypsies. The shouting of the drivers and other sounds did nothing to disturb her. For almost half an hour, we waited for her to stir. Then, all of a sudden, she let out a soft moan, rose to her feet, walked a few yards, and lay down once more. This time, I was able to capture some clear pictures of her, as she briefly responded to the clamour of the drivers trying to offer their passengers a better view.
Noor or T-39, an old and dominant tigress | Gautam Bhaskar
More vehicles began arriving at the scene, forcing those already stationed there to clear out. As our bus left the area, the tourists were ecstatic after witnessing a tiger in the wild. Some foreign tourists, on their very first Ranthambore safari, were thrilled to have seen a tiger on their first attempt.
Similar to their experience, this was my first safari in Ranthambore, and I was fortunate to witness a tiger. As I mentioned in my Jhalana travelogue about my leopard sighting, this was also my first time seeing a tiger in the wild.
Until now, my only encounter had been spotting fresh pugmarks during a trek in the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary of Kerala—I had never seen a tiger in its natural habitat before. Tigers are difficult to spot in the dense jungles of the Western Ghats, especially in Kerala, where they are highly elusive and prefer to avoid human presence.
The state’s diverse forest types provide an excellent environment for both tigers and leopards to blend into their surroundings, as they are masters of camouflage. For a wildlife photographer, capturing a tiger in the wilderness of South India is a challenge due to the dense vegetation and the animal’s keen instincts, which help it remain elusive.
Quoting the famous saying from the book The Tiger: A True Story of Vengeance and Survival by John Vaillant: “The tiger will see you a hundred times before you see him once.”
The evening safari
My evening safari was through Zone 10 of the park. Just like in the morning, a different bus picked me up from the hotel, along with a few more tourists from various resorts and hotels. The town and bazaars were crowded, and vehicles bustled through the roads. The entrance to the national park at Zone 10 is accessed via NH 552, which traverses the states of Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, and Uttar Pradesh. This zone is 14 km from Ranthambore and features a landscape of water bodies and hilly paths.
The canter bus comprised some foreign travellers and a few Indians, including me. The driver and naturalist this time were different. The naturalist’s name was Pankaj Joshi, whom I called Joshi Bhai.
A well-known naturalist, he has been associated with Ranthambore National Park for years and has extensive knowledge of the park’s flora and fauna. He offered me the front seat of the canter bus, near the driver, as he stood explaining the topography of Zone 10.
We began our journey, and the trail through the zone was dusty. After travelling a few furlongs, we noticed pugmarks imprinted on the path. Joshi Bhai identified them as belonging to the tigress T-99, also known as Aishwarya.
She is the dominant tigress of this zone and the mate of Jai (T-108), who controls both Zone 10 and Zone 6. Unfortunately, we couldn’t spot either Jai or Aishwarya.
The bus stopped at a refreshment area equipped with toilets for tourists. I took the opportunity to ask Joshi Bhai which zone had the highest number of leopards. He explained that leopards inhabit most zones of the park and that Ranthambore is home to approximately 170 leopards.
After that short break, we continued our journey. Zone 10 is an ideal place for bird watchers, with the meowing calls of peacocks echoing through the forest. Some of the park’s denizens revealed themselves as we observed the peaceful coexistence of various grazers—a few spotted deer, female nilgais, and peacocks foraging on the forest floor under the watchful eyes of Hanuman langurs perched on the treetops.
After hours of scanning the jungle, we couldn’t spot a tiger. We decided to halt the vehicle in an open area where no vegetation obstructed our view. There, we witnessed some stunning visuals—a few peacocks near the water’s edge, their glittering feathers shimmering under the fading light. A few distance away, a herd of sambar deer cautiously emerged from the dense foliage, stepping into the clearing.
Leading them was a dominant stag, his imposing antlers standing tall as he scanned the surroundings, his ears flicking at the faintest rustle in the undergrowth. Not far from the herd, another stag, a younger challenger, was partially submerged in a shallow muddy pool, engaged in the process of ‘wallowing’. Wallowing is an act of rolling around or lying in mud or water.
Deer, wild boar, and buffaloes engage in wallowing to regulate the body temperature protect themselves from insects, and maintain their skin. After capturing some landscape shots and photographing the sambar deer, we moved to another area, hoping to catch a glimpse of a tiger.
That area, too, was eerily silent as our bus, along with other canter buses, waited in anticipation, hoping for a tiger to emerge from the vegetation to quench its thirst.
However, luck wasn’t on our side—the tiger remained elusive. Joshi bhai then received an update from a guide patrolling Zone 6, who informed him that Noor, also known as T-39, was still at the same spot where she had been in the morning.
As daylight faded into dusk, we began our journey back toward the entrance gate of the zone. Upon entering the highway, the scenes of the safari flashed through my mind in an instant. A slight disappointment lingered within me—I had truly hoped to spot a tiger during the evening safari. However, luck had not favoured me in the evening as it had in the morning.
As we continued our way back, my eyes caught sight of a cow’s carcass lying near the periphery of the highway. Joshi Bhai speculated that it was likely the work of a tiger or a leopard, a stark reminder of the raw, untamed nature of Ranthambore’s wilderness.
The bazaars and town were bustling with activity, with people moving about and vehicles honking their way through the crowded streets. At one point, our bus came to a brief halt due to traffic congestion, My eyes caught the attention of two Hanuman langurs perched atop a house.
This sight reminded me of the delicate balance between humans and wildlife—the way nature finds its place even amid human settlements. It was a quiet reflection on how man, despite his ever-growing expansion, must learn and adapt to coexist peacefully with the creatures that have shared this land long before us.
The writer is an HR professional.
