Love, like wine, gets better with time. And if it is grape wine, it is simply the best.
That is why our Valentine’s Day trip was set for the enchanting grape farms of Cumbam.
Nestled in the Theni district of Tamil Nadu, this small town lies about 500km from Chennai. Surrounded by the Varusanadu Hills, Kodaikanal, and Thekkady Hills; just 100km from the historic city of Madurai, Cumbam is nothing short of a mesmerising experience, especially for couples in love.
The lush green farms, where you can taste ripe grapes, mangoes, pomegranates, and an array of fresh produce, offer a sensory delight.
We set out for Cumbam in the second week of February via Thekkady, ready to celebrate our Valentine’s week in the midst of nature. The slightly humid climate during the day was inviting, while the misty, cool evenings were perfect for cozying up under a blanket.
The drive from Thekkady to Cumbam turned out to be one of the most romantic journeys of my life: long winding roads, thrilling hairpin curves, and breathtaking scenery.
I rolled down the window, letting the fresh air kiss my cheeks and play with my curly hair. The sweet fragrance of unnamed wildflowers drifted from the dense green woods as our Volkswagen Polo GT glided ahead. Tea plantations bordered the misty mountains, creating a stunning backdrop that I eagerly captured through my Nikon camera. The mesmerising valleys often tempted us to pull over, just to take in the view.
At every viewpoint, small tea stalls beckoned with their rustic charm. We stopped to enjoy local Tamil Nadu delicacies like ‘mulak bajji’ (fried chili fritters), savouring the crispiness while listening to stories from the elderly tea vendors. Though we weren’t fluent in Tamil, our ‘koncham koncham’ (little by little) understanding was enough to grasp their animated storytelling.
One particular tale stood out – the story of Cumbam.
Once upon a time, King Viswanatha Nayak wished to build a temple for Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva. Pleased with his devotion, Lord Vishnu appeared in his dream and instructed him to find a sacred stone from the Western Ghats. The King discovered the stone and installed the idol, naming it Kambaraya Perumala, meaning the Perumal found beneath a stone. Over time, the town derived its name from this legend, evolving into Kambam or Cumbam. Later, when the King visited Kashi, he brought back a Shivalinga and built a shrine for Lord Shiva as well.
Even today, these ancient stories are woven into the fabric of Cumbam, retold over steaming cups of tea at roadside stalls.
A journey through colours
Beyond its temples, Cumbam offers a visual feast. As we drove along the Cumbam-Gudalur route, the vibrant greenery of coconut groves, banana plantations, and cornfields stretched endlessly before us. Only then did I realise green is not just a colour; it is an emotion. The soft, tender hues of coconut trees contrasted with the neon vibrancy of banana leaves, while the pale green of the cornfields carried a melancholic yellow tint.
As we reached the marigold farms, a golden glow bathed the landscape, creating a picture-perfect palette of nature’s finest shades. Every frame we captured was a testament to Cumbam’s beauty.
Into the vineyards
Finally, about 4km from the main town, we arrived at our much-awaited destination: the vineyards. A vast stretch of purple perfection lay before us, the vineyards forming a velvety violet carpet inviting us to walk hand in hand. As we parked the car, our excitement took over. Like children running toward a candy store, we sprinted into the vineyard’s canopy, unable to contain our joy.
The evening was calm, the golden hues of the setting sun blending seamlessly with the deep purples of the grapes. The vines hung low, their clusters brushing against our foreheads. We couldn’t resist playfully jumping to reach them, capturing endless candid shots of grape kisses on our lips. Sometimes, a little childishness is the essence of romance, we admitted with laughter.
Since our stay was booked at a resort nearby, we had all the time in the world to soak in the beauty of the vineyards, savouring the rich sweetness of freshly plucked grapes.
A love story in the vineyards
As we wandered through the vineyard, my mind drifted to ‘Namukku Parkkan Munthirithoppukal’, a Malayalam film by Padmarajan. I recalled Solomon and Sofia, the unforgettable lovers, and the poetic words Solomon recites from the Bible: “Let us go early to the vineyards to see if the vines have budded, if their blossoms have opened, and if the pomegranates are in bloom.”
And so, on Valentine’s Day morning, we woke up to the buds and blossoms of the vineyard. There, among the vines and their fragrant blooms, we sealed our love.
Riya Joy works with the Malayala Manorama in Kochi, Kerala.
