Jerusalem is a place that evokes varied emotions and a sense of ethos like no other. Well, this place is holy not just to Jews but also Christians and Muslims. As outsiders, we may form so many opinions based on what we read and see, but I can tell you this is a place that is serene yet modern, spiritual yet contemporary. And yes, nothing can prepare you for the trip down history that you will experience in one of the world’s oldest cities. Well where else can you walk in the lanes where kings and prophets once walked? But, Jerusalem is much more than that.
David Tower Museum
Museum Musings
I start my tour of Jerusalem at the Tower of David Museum that encapsulates the 2,500-year history of Jerusalem. Interestingly, this is a walled city and it was so, to protect the city from intruders in the past. The Old City has four parts—The Jewish Quarter, The Armenian Quarter, The Christian Quarter and The Muslim Quarter and has seven entry gates. Located at the Jaffa gate, the western most of the gates, this museum is a project of the Jerusalem Foundation. This is a great place to start as it basically tells you the story of Jerusalem highlighting all the major events in its history starting from the 2nd century BC till it became the capital of Israel. The citadel here is an archaeological site that offers panoramic views of the old city. The exhibits take you back in time chronologically listing all important events that made the city what it is.
The 12th Station of the Via Dolorosa at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the place of the Crucifixion
Via Dolorosa Trip
I then head to see the ‘Stations of the Cross’ or the route that Jesus Christ walked towards his crucifixion. The route passes through narrow roads that open up and mark the 15 points that are the major stops in his walk. There is also a station where Jesus is said to have rested his hand against a wall which you can also touch today! While nine of the stations on this route head to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher that has five stations inside its precincts. The beautifully ornate interiors of this Church are bound to blow your mind. This is where you can see the spot where Jesus was crucified or the ‘Calvary’ and his empty tomb where he is was buried and resurrected. The Church also has a Stone of Anointing that is believed to be the spot where Jesus's body was prepared for burial after he was crucified. All devotees bow down here and seek blessings their rosaries and any gifts they have with them.
The Western wall or Wailing wall is the holiest place to Judaism in the old city of Jerusalem
The Western Wall (Kotel)
Judaism’s most sacred site is the Western Wall that is as sacred to the Jews as to the Muslims. It is the only part of the original temple Mount destroyed by the Romans in 70 CE. This spot is considered holy as it has the closest connection to the Temple Mount the holiest place where Jews are permitted to pray. Naturally this is very crowded and men and women have separate areas to pray as the idea is to pray without being distracted. Men must cover their heads and women must wear modest clothing. There are several pieces of paper within the cracks on the wall on which wishes are written. And it is believed that these will be fulfilled. Interestingly Muslims call this the Buraq Wall as on the other side is said to be the location where the Prophet Muhammed tied the Buraq or the animal upon which he rode during the Night of Ascension to the heavens. However, if you want to understand more about this place, head to the Western Wall Tunnels, where with the help of a guide who can take you through the narrow labyrinths that tell the story of the wall underground. There is still work going on in terms of excavation but the tunnels are a story in themselves where you discover water channels, Struthion Pool, huge stones that weigh close to 520 metric tonnes raising questions of how they could have been brought here. In fact this is where you can see a quarry and also an ancient synagogue of the Jews.
An Arab baazar located inside the walls of the old city of Jerusalem
And if you feel that you want to lighten up your mood, the Arab Market (Shuk) in the Muslim quarter has numerous shops on either side of a narrow alley filled with distinctive souvenirs from the region that are hard to resist. Walk along the rebuilt Jewish Quarter and Cardo which are ruins of a main street from Roman times and you can feel history reverberating in the walls. And I also suggest a Ramparts Walk—a walkway atop the Old City walls. It offers a unique panoramic view of the Old City and its surroundings. This walk is open till 10pm so if you can do the walk post sunset, you will see the city in a magical hue. After a long day, I am back at the Tower of David Museum for a sound and light show that is aptly called ‘The Night Spectacular’. As the show starts, I am transported into another world when the beige limestone walls of citadel are lit up with myriad lights and the sounds, music and images are projected on the walls magically transporting me to the past. The show ends with a poignant message for peace in Jerusalem, an emotion everyone will relate with. And for me this was really the perfect end to a trip that gave me wonderful memories for a lifetime!
