An exhibition at the King’s Gallery in London explores the lives of two of Britain’s tastemaker royal couples, King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, and King George V and Queen Mary. ‘Edwardians: Age of Elegance’ transports the visitor to an era of opulence and glamour exploring the period from Edward and Alexandra’s wedding in 1863 up till the First World War. Over their lifetime, both couples were seen partaking in the glittering social circles and contributing to royal events. They travelled the world commissioning artists, designers and collecting art and artefacts along the way.
This exhibition features over 300 objects from their personal collection. While it offers the visitor a glimpse into their jet-set lives it is also testament to how times have changed from the era of travelling for months by ship to the convenience of taking a flight.
We have bid adieu to the dreadfully lengthy transatlantic crossings and the lightning progress of technology has made exploring the world a more accessible task. With this the cumbersome, heavy-weight luggage too has transformed. Before the advent of the suitcase, a hefty trunk was what most people would travel with. Handmade, sturdy, waterproof trunks made from wood, leather and an iron base. Perhaps the sheer weight of such items would be equivalent if not more than the allowed check-in allowance in today’s time.
In 2021, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London organised an exhibition exploring the style, function, design and craftsmanship of bags. This included trunks and despatch boxes including one belonging to Winston Churchill. Many of today’s popular luxury designers started their journeys from designing and creating luggage pieces. In 1792, Pierre-François Martin founded Maison Martin with a speciality in trunk and box making. He would focus on the delicate art of garment folding at a time where hand steamers and luggage cubes did not exist. Maison Martin took the name of Goyard in 1845, François Goyard took over the business. Goyard became the go-to choice for royalty, aristocracy including the British Royal Family, the Russian Imperial family, Pablo Picasso and Sacha Guitry, the Maharaja of Kapurthala, Jacques Cartier, the Rockefellers, and Coco Chanel.
Similarly, the iconic Louis Vuitton’s heritage is seeped in the craft of trunk making. After spending a tiresome 17 years honing the art, Louis Vuitton was established in 1854. What kept the interest and intrigue alive amongst the patrons, few of whom were Indian royalty was the fact that the Vuitton was constantly seeking to make trunks and luggage which was not only sturdier but also more convenient to carry. Many times this was tailor-made to suit the client’s needs. One of my all-time favourite pieces would be Ernest Hemingway’s Library Trunk, which beautifully fits a collection of books and a typewriter. A perfect object d’art for Hemingway to store his treasure trove of literature. There was a sense of flair and fashion to travel with women carrying their dainty vanity bags and men keeping their suits in garment bags.
Last week, Christie’s opened an online auction, ‘Legendary Trunks: A European Private Collection Part II’, which is live until the 1st of July. This is the second sale of the largest single-owner collection of Louis Vuitton trunks ever featured at an auction with 100 iconic trunks. Scrolling through this sale, one gets a glimpse into the evolution of trunks and luggage. The art of travel, which has changed so drastically over the years.
As travel became accessible to the world, mass produced luggage was popularised. Ironically, luggage trunks are now experiencing a comeback. Seamlessly blending vintage aesthetics with modern functionality.
Have we run out of creative ideas or is the trunk design just too timeless and immersed in nostalgia?
The Louis Vuitton fashion show that took place a few days ago in Paris featured some stunning India-inspired trunks. Embellished with jewels and crystals, with ornate gold fittings and painted in deep maroon and brown tones, these trunks were a celebration of Indian craftsmanship.
Luxury luggage brands such as Globetrotter and Rimowa are having a moment with their trunk inspired designs, experimenting with durable and versatile materials.
Luggage is becoming a way of expressing oneself and maybe it's time Indian artisans steal the spotlight.