Over the years, I have watched countless videos of the Border Security Force (BSF) and Pakistan Rangers marching at the Wagah border. My first visit to Wagah was in the 1990s, and I recall the sense of pride it evoked. So, when I got the chance to witness the ceremony in person for the second time, decades later, I was thrilled beyond words.
On our side of the border, a large crowd of enthusiastic Indians had gathered, while a very small group of Pakistanis stood on the opposite side. The palpable excitement on both sides of the border felt far greater compared to the atmosphere during my earlier visit. A few BSF soldiers near our gallery were encouraging us to shout ‘Bharat Mata Ki Jai’ and Vande Bharat’ loudly along with them.
From 2010, the introduction of women in the BSF contingent at Wagah has added a sensational dimension to the ceremony. The female commandos bring agility and elegance to the parade, drawing even more spectators. While Pakistan Rangers do have some women in their ranks, they are fewer in number compared to our stunning and acrobatic women constables from the BSF, who truly haul up the experience.
Some people from both sides of the border were seen waving to each other. Despite problems between our nations, such gestures are a reminder that Pakistanis are, after all, our neighbours. As our driver later explained, Wagah is actually a village on the Pakistani side, while Attari is the last point on the Indian side, just 3km apart on the Amritsar-Lahore highway. In fact, it was part of the historic Grand Trunk Road that once connected Kolkata to Kabul.
The Indian side has a bigger stadium-like seating arrangement. On the Pakistani side, I could see a lot of work going on. Perhaps they want to emulate India’s efforts. The flag-lowering ceremony begins every evening just before dusk, with passionate battle cries from the guards. These riveting acts and aggressive stares reveal the tension between the two nations. But the ceremony concludes with a handshake of cooperation between the soldiers, a poignant point amidst the pomp.
Recently, the BSF lodged a protest with the Pakistan Rangers after a photograph of the Kashmiri separatist leader Syed Ali Shah Geelani was displayed on the Pakistani side of the Wagah post. Such incidents emphasise the complex relationship between the two nations. All said, sweets are still exchanged during festivals like Eid and Diwali.
For a moment, the patriot in me wanted to shout praises for Mother India. But I chose instead to soak in the electric atmosphere—the roaring crowd and the cheers all around.
This second visit to Wagah left me with a deeper appreciation of the ceremony and the shared humanity that lies beyond the border.
