World Cup diaries: Moscow's escalator culture

Moscow metro has 631 escalators in metro stations, covering a massive 65km in length

escalator-moscow-reuters An escalator at a metro station in Moscow | Reuters

Connecting the web of Moscow's metro system and the sprawling city above are long escalator rides at these metro stations. It feels like Muscovites do a lot of their living on the escalators themselves and hence have developed a unique culture of its own on these long rides.

Apart from the malls and other public places, the Moscow metro has 631 escalators in the metro stations, covering a massive 65km in length! For instance, the escalator ride at the Park Pobedy station, which has the lowest platform, takes exactly three minutes to go up or down. It is the world's longest escalator (126m).

I often wondered how pitiful it would be for people who get on these escalators and then realise that they have taken the wrong one! Then, it actually happened to me. At the Park Kultury station, I hopped on to an escalator that I thought would take me to metro line one, when in fact, it took me to another line. I realised it halfway through the journey down, but by then it was too late. I had to run up the flight of almost 50m, huffing and puffing as I reached the right platform.

There is one unspoken rule on these rides. All those who get on the escalator, stand still in a line on the right side—that is if you have the time. This is to facilitate those who are in a hurry, to make a dash on the left side. Surprisingly, the people who make a run for it are much lesser than those who prefer to rest their legs. If this was in an Indian city, there would certainly be more on the left than the right!

Life on these rides is interesting to observe. For instance, on almost every ride you will notice at least five pairs of people having conversations facing each other. When they get on to the escalator, the one in front immediately turns around and they talk all the way up or down. It gets a little more intense with couple who are either hugging or lost in a long-drawn kiss from start to end. You will also find people buried in books.

The only audible sound during the usually dull rides is the sound of the escalator moving. But things are different during the World Cup. On match days, you will find fans from different countries spicing up the ride by chanting and singing. If they see a rival coming on the opposite direction, a lot of banter is exchanged. If they see a fellow supporter, hi-fives and fist bumps are exchanged.

The local Russians joined in the frenzy after victories by the Russian teams. So much so that the operators, who sit in a cabin at the base of every escalator, were left smiling and joining in with “Roosya, Roosya!”