Ghanshyam Sarode has been working with uppada sarees since 1984. The 61-year-old also specialises in reviving old jamdhani. In Dhaka, about over 100 years ago, the finest Dhaka sarees were used on cotton muslin. As a revivalist, Sarode is using the same thing in upadda sarees and is showcasing this technique at Vastrabharana 2018, an initiative by Craft Council of Karnataka. He is also bringing the intricate works in the form of Pechani sarees of Aurangabad, gadwal sarees, cotton sarees and hand kalamkari sarees at the three-day event that will kickstart from May 25 in Mumbai.
But he is not the only one. Malavika Chatterjee has been working with the handwoven fabrics in chikankari since 1994. Together with the weavers from Maheshwar and Bengal who have been trained under her are creating chikankari embroidery. At the event, she is bringing the handwoven chanderi, handwoven maheshwari with chikankari, embroidery with mukaish and kaamdari work on handloom sarees.
“Since the work involves embroidery, there can be a shrink in the fabric. So we specify the length and breath of the fabric to the weaver while training them,” she says.
Vastrabharna 2018 gives platform to artists, weavers and craftsman like Sarode and Chatterjee to bring their crafts in front of the urban population with an agenda to promote the skills and crafts of the weavers. 34 such artisans and weavers of the country from every nook and corner of the country are participating in this year's event.
Craft Council of Karnataka is a not-for-profit organisation that is affiliated to Crafts Council of India and World Craft Council. It has been helping and supporting the craftsmen and weavers in giving them guidance on bringing out textile and weave in their original form with a design intervention for public.
Highlighting the agenda and the role of the Crafts Council of Karnataka, Purvi Patel, co-convenor, Vastrabharna, says, “People want to see everything new all the time. At the same time, they want to learn about the art that existed years ago. So we bring the revival patterns and weaves by connecting the weavers directly to the buyers, with ample design intervention and research work with books, experience and technical support in terms of machinery and tools desired for weaving. We are also involved in helping and supporting the craftsmen and weavers in giving them guidance on bringing out textile and weave in their original form with a design intervention for public.”
The participants in this year's showcase also feature several notable names. Some of them are also national and state award winners and even Padmashri and UNESCO-crafts award winners who have constantly worked with different weaves. Some of the artists who have made it to the list include Ahmedabad-based Sripal Shah who has been promoting takli; Marm, who specialises in chanderi handwoven fabrics by closely working with the weavers/artisans to promote organic handwoven textiles in contemporary styles; Sufiyan Khatri, who has revived old Fostart design and designs of the coromandel coast in new colours; Metaphor Racha, who celebrates the spirit of khadi; and mother-daughter duo Moushumi and Nupur, who use Madhubani art to their fashion apparels.