In order to recover from the losses incurred by Aparajito (1956, and the second instalment of Apu Trilogy), Satyajit Ray wanted to make a crowd-pleasing film. He knew this film would incorporate music and dance in generous doses, but not completely give in to mass-market demands of the Bengali public. Coming from the Ray stable, it had to be intellectually stimulating. An accident in Varanasi occasioned a bed-ridden state during which Ray devoured many Bengali books. When he read Tarashankar Bandopadhyay's short story Jalsaghar, Ray knew he had found his hero. It was the character of Biswambhar Roy—a music-loving zamindar on the brink of financial ruin. Biswambhar refuses to give up his lavish lifestyle and stake control over his sprawling estate, which is gradually slipping away. Our decadent landlord immerses himself in the ragas of classical music and dance and competes with a newly-rich younger neighbour to host the most ostentatious concerts in his dazzling music room (called Jalsaghar in Bangla), even as his treasure chest leaks. Ray saw enough pathos and cinematic flavour in the decline of this feudal lord in pre-Independence India. The only thing left now was to find that crumbling old palace reminiscent of an era gone by.
The search for this palace was intense and seemingly impossible. Ray was about to abandon this project when an old man in a tea-shop in Lalgola village in Murshidabad directed him to Nimtita Rajbari. Located at a distance of 10km from Murshidabad, this disintegrating palace revealed itself as an epiphany to Ray. His excitement knew no bounds and Ray immediately wrote to the short story writer Tarashankar, telling him how “We’ve found our palace at last... At a little known place called Nimtita". Vaguely recalling the name, Tarashankar inquired further: Was he referring to "the palace of the Chaudhuris?”. When Ray said yes, that it was the indeed the one, Tarashankar revealed the real inspiration behind his short story, “But that’s extraordinary! I haven’t been to Nimtita myself, but I’ve read about the Chaudhuris in a history of Bengal zamindars, and it was the music-loving Upendra Narayan Chaudhuri who served as the model for my rajah.” (Our Films Their Films by Satyajit Ray).
Was it just a happy fluke or some divine decree people call fate?
Poster of Jalsaghar
Be that as it may, Delhi denizens can come and see Nimtita Rajbari in all its former glory at the screening of Jalsaghar, in which veteran actor Chhabi Biswas poignantly and assiduously defends his ornate music room and entertainment hall as Biswambhar Roy. To be screened as part of the Navrasa Duende World Classic Movie Festival from June 22-24 in Delhi, Jalsaghar is the only Indian entry among other eternal favourites, including Ingmar Bergman's Wild Strawberries, Vittorio De Sica's Bicycle Thieves, and Victor Fleming's Gone With the Wind.
Says Dinesh Singh, founder of Navrasa Duende, about choosing this one Indian classic: “This was one movie that Satyajit Ray planned as a mainstream popular genre, of course, in his own classical way. He also allowed differences of opinion with Vilayat Khan and Chhabi Biswas, which helped in delicate balancing of interpretation of feudal landlord’s character. This remains the best film on the feudal system decay. Of course, Ray also made a subtle but strong statement on artistically blending dance and music in movies. Visually, it was most magnificent!” Legendary sitar player Ustad Vilayat Khan's music score and on-screen performances by Begum Akhtar and Kathak exponent Roshan Kumari make Jalsaghar an all-star ensemble.
Today the 153-year-old Nimtita Rajbari, immortalised by Ray, lies in a state of utter neglect with squeaking doors and splintered walls, overrun by wayward plants. The descendants of the original owners, the Chowdhurys, are settled in Kolkata and only come down to the palace once a year to celebrate Durga Puja. In fact, the pujos is believed to be best time to visit Nimtita, even though it is no longer conducted with the same fanfare. In a newspaper article last year, the Chowdhurys expressed their inability to restore the stately country house to its former grandeur. Villagers says it is falling apart before their eyes, even though tourists come looking for the famous music room in the palace.
Jalsaghar will be screened on 23 June at 7:30pm at Siri Fort Auditorium.