For a limited window last month, Bandra’s The Penang Table hosted an unusual culinary crossover.
The restaurant’s new collaborative series, Gang of Penang, began with a partnership with chef Lisa of Lisa’s Lanka, formerly known for the cult Goa restaurant Jaffna’s Jump.
The pop-up promised a meeting point between Malaysian and Sri Lankan flavours, two cuisines shaped by similar spice routes and coastal traditions. The menu leaned unapologetically towards bold flavours including pepper, mustard, coconut and tang. But what stood out most was the comfort that underpinned these dishes, even when the spices were assertive.
One of the most memorable dishes of the evening was the Jaffna curry with jackfruit, a vegetarian take on a traditionally meat-heavy preparation. The curry carried the deep aromatics that Jaffna cuisine is known for, roasted spices, curry leaves and warmth without unnecessary heaviness. The jackfruit absorbed the gravy beautifully, offering a meaty texture that worked surprisingly well with the intense spice profile.
Seafood also featured prominently on the menu, and the Yellow Grain Mustard Curry with fish showcased that coastal character. The fish was remarkably fresh and soft, flaking easily into the mustard-forward gravy. The curry itself leaned slightly salty for my palate, but the flavours were still balanced enough to remain enjoyable. With a side of rice or hopper, it came together as a comforting, homestyle plate.
The hopper, however, was where the meal really found its star moment. Served here in a dramatic charcoal version shaped like a basket, the hopper held a filling of chicken within its crisp, lacy shell. Hoppers can sometimes be an afterthought in Sri Lankan menus, just a vehicle for curry, but this one held its own. The delicate crunch on the edges gave way to the soft centre, creating a contrast in textures that made it deeply satisfying.
If there was a single standout dish of the evening, it had to be the Eggplant Moju. This classic Sri Lankan preparation, sweet, sour and spiced, was elevated here in a way that made the humble brinjal feel unexpectedly exciting. The eggplant had absorbed the tangy marinade perfectly, delivering bursts of flavour with every bite.
Dessert kept the momentum going. The Spiced Palm Brûlée, infused with nutmeg and cinnamon and finished with palm sugar caramelisation, was outstanding. The custard was silky and aromatic, while the crackling brûlée top added just enough bitterness to balance the sweetness.
Alongside it, The Island Malt with Baileys gelato, Milo crumble and salted caramel was rich and indulgent. For me, the malt notes came across slightly stronger than expected, but those who enjoy bold dessert flavours will likely appreciate its intensity.
What made this pop-up interesting was not the conversation between cuisines. Sri Lankan food rarely gets the spotlight in Mumbai’s dining scene, and pairing it with Penang’s culinary sensibilities added a layer of curiosity to the experience.
"We are looking forward to many more pop-ups that will hopefully continue into the year," said Lisa, speaking to THE WEEK. "For diners willing to lean into those bold flavours, the experience can be deeply rewarding," she added.
