We have long made our 'Double ka meetha' and 'Shahi Tukra' at home and served it, garnished with shiny vark—thin, edible silver sheets—and candied fruit that go by the name of tutti frutti.
But homemade bread? Hardly ever. It has always been the factory-made loaf that has turned into the toast or sandwich on the table at home. And slices from these loaves have been dipped into a spiced batter of chickpea flour and deep fried to make bread pakoda—a snack that is popular next only to samosa in most parts of the country.
In recent times, however, many have taken to baking their bread at home. It is not clear what exactly kicked off this trend. Some say it is because kids of Indians who returned home at the end of their long overseas stay missed the breads they ate while in Europe. More importantly, they felt the boules, batards and baguettes available at the best and most famous bakeries here just did not measure up in taste.
Men and women, both young and old, are increasingly being drawn to baking bread at home also because of a spurt in food blogs, books and cookery shows. Not to forget, easy access to baking courses. The enthusiasm is such that some dash up to Germany, France or elsewhere in Europe for a short term baking course—two weeks to a month-long-course in baking bread the authentic way. Those who cannot make that trip, take the short route—online courses that come packed with features like lifetime access to the baker-chef conducting the programme, and also access to their restricted website and lessons.
To bake with Indian flours, under Indian weather conditions and tailor it for gluten-allergic or wheat-allergic people, is a challenge. Food writer Saee Koranne-Khandekar addressed these issues two years ago in her book Crumbs! Bread Stories and Recipes for the Indian Kitchen. In the book, she laid down simple recipes and tips for the novice baker, and personal anecdotes and 'bread stories'.
The artisan bread scene is also constantly growing. Handmade using the best ingredients, Artisan breads, with each round or oblong-shaped bread, carry a unique story. And also being hand-crafted makes them one of its kind. Artisan bread makers have a huge following on social media, too. For instance, The Indian Artisan Bread Bakers Facebook group has 2,538 members. The page is administered by Bengaluru-based Samruddhi Nayak who holds courses in bread baking, all over the country.
On her page, Samruddhi says, “Artisan bread is essentially hand made bread , made without any of the chemicals (additives, preservatives, dough conditioners and other toxic ingredients) that goes into commercial factory made bread”.
In May 2016, a study by the Centre for Science and Environment found that potassium bromate and potassium iodate, additives used in pre-packaged breads and buns were potentially carcinogenic. This led to the government banning potassium bromate, and the All India Bread Manufacturers Association volunteered to ban using these additives.
The season's trend is sourdough bread—made the European rustic way—almost the way we would make our idlis and dosas, paranthas and puris. Sourdough bread, chewy with a mildly sour taste, is made by the fermentation of dough using naturally occurring lactobacilli and yeast, instead of commercial baker's yeast. Bereft of artificial rising agents and additives, this humble, traditional style of bread baking seems to be back in style now.