Archaeologists can date the earliest form of vitreous enamelling to the 13th century. Rings, unearthed in a Mycenaean tomb at Kouklia, featured various coloured vitreous layers fused onto the gold. While some Egyptian artefacts, like those from Tutankhamun's tomb, are often described as using enamel, many scholars believe the paste wasn't sufficiently melted to be considered true enamel, and instead use terms like ‘glass-paste’.
However, over the years, enamelling techniques such as cloisonné, plique-à-jour, ronde bosse and minakari have burgeoned into serious jewellery and decorative objects of art.
In the 16th century, 500 years ago, the beautiful art form of enamel painting called minakari was brought to India from Persia. Eventually gaining huge popularity in Rajasthan and patronised by Raja Man Singh of Amber, this delicate, highly skilled art form soon became an integral part of India's cultural fabric. Adorning palace walls, ceilings and doors initially, artisans soon started crafting jewellery out of this stunning art form.
Last week, I had the pleasure of visiting the Museum of Minakari, the brainchild of jeweller Sunita Shekhawat. After 25 years of crafting timeless minakari pieces and creating an atelier of her own, Sunita Shekhawat, embarked on a journey of building an institution. A museum celebrating the historic significance of minakari as well as her own journey of contributing to the craft. An interesting juxtaposition of preservation and promotion.
Very few jewellers have the foresight to patronise a single craft, a technique of skill and precision and then build an institution around it. The museum stands as a repository of knowledge and a space for people to be inspired by the laborious craft. Learning about the tedious process and the cornucopia of pigments was indeed an eye opener. Minakari colours are essentially metal oxides infused with powdered glass.
The true colour of the enamel comes out once the metal is heated. Sounds straightforward in theory but honing one's skill in this craft is certainly no easy feat.
Despite appreciating the art form and observing it in family heirlooms with delight, I had even more respect for the artisans painstakingly embellishing these metals and the House of Sunita Shekhawat for taking the craft forward in a multifaceted manner.
In the heart of the pink city, Jaipur, the Museum of Minakari, curated by jewellery historian Usha R. Balakrishnan comes to life with an exquisite array of fine minakari. Sixty pieces, detailed, delicate works of art, an amalgamation of heritage and modernity. The museum starts by transporting you to the Renaissance in Europe and the prevalence of minakari. The visitor is then brought to the 16th century. A time when minakari was introduced to India. As knowledge was exchanged between the East and West, techniques and design were experimented with and evolved. This is perhaps what the museum stands for. A space where knowledge is preserved and creativity knows no bounds.
As the evening continued, we were ushered downstairs to the retail section. Here was the opening of the Collectibles showcase. A sensory experience began, each room with its captivating ceiling murals having an identity of its own. Carefully placed in a single room was a special piece, an enamelled object d’art bridging the ancient art of minakari for a contemporary collector. An emerald green minakari hand mirror for example, displayed on a bed of peacock feathers. Rich green, myriad shades of blue transporting one to a paradisiacal Mughal garden.
The importance of a museum in igniting dialogue was evident as the space was echoing with chatter and conversation. In India one is now seeing a growing number of privately funded museums. Today, custodians and pioneers of art and culture have a unique position. One where they can use their aesthetics, expertise and finer sensibilities to create a lasting impact and legacy beyond a business.
In a world where the worth of natural and lab grown diamonds is being questioned and the value of gold is only soaring, jewellery museums can be the solid pillars, the foundations for pure appreciation.
Spaces which inspire the discerning visitor to invest in creativity and exceptional craftsmanship.