Gaurav Gupta | Getty Images
Gaurav Gupta is one of the most well-known Indian names in avant-garde fashion, famous for his sculptural style and embellishing techniques. He has just launched a joint-venture jewellery brand called Gaurav Gupta Occasions Fine Jewellery. It consists of 50 handmade pieces with diamonds and precious stones set in white gold mould.
You just came out with your first jewellery line. Why now?
I have been wanting to do jewellery for many years now. I was involved with a jewellery brand in Italy 15 years ago. Whenever I saw pictures of brides who were my clients, I felt that everything was right design-wise, but the jewellery they wore was quite ugly. I feel that diamond jewellery in India is not designed properly. The aesthetic is borrowed from the west. Very few designs are authentic. I wanted to give birth to an authentic couture brand with a strong design ethos.
There are three collections—feather, infinity and forest. The feather collection is inspired by feathers and wings of birds. My brand has always been a bit fantastical. From this collection, the Liberation necklace is designed with 8,000 diamonds. Then there is the Infinity collection which is all about illumination and infinity of lines, inspired by the orbits of the cosmos. Finally, there is the forest collection, which includes three-dimensional flowers and is inspired by forest foliage.
You just opened your fourth store in Kolkata.
We have been looking at expanding outside Delhi and Mumbai. We want a bigger footprint for the brand. Kolkata has evolved a lot in terms of fashion, with the rise of experimental fashion [that aligns with our philosophy]. The old-school mentality is gone, with so many kids returning to the city after studying abroad.
Can you tell us about your 2019 couture collection, Undercurrent?
The whole feel of the collection is that of fluidity. There is a lot of movement in lines and volumes. There is a wave-like feel with ruffles and sculpting techniques. There is also a lot of layering, with the clothes in shades of violet, pink, black and red. Like the amazing statement gown in red that I opened the show with.
You have completed 15 years in fashion. How has your work evolved over the years?
I have been very lucky to be accepted by the media. My first fashion show was at the Wills Lifestyle Fashion Week in 2006. Since then, my collections have become more refined and mature. We know our market better now. We like to challenge the prevailing aesthetic. We came out with the sari gown and the concept sari in 2006. Now you see it in every store and in every TV serial.
You once said that you have an innate need to keep creating something new. Is that a challenge?
I have to challenge myself constantly. I do not refer to a lot of costumes or places. That is what Saint Martins (in London, where he graduated from) taught me—to be original. My collections are inspired by personal and artistic feelings.