Evolution of Indian Railway food: From platform snacks to plush dining cars to IRCTC

FOR A GEN X KID from a middle-class family, outstation travel invariably meant trains, unless the destination was a short bus ride away. These pre-21st-century rail journeys were layered with memories, and among the most vivid of them are connected with food.

Food quickly assumed an important role in shaping the travel experience, rivalling the sights and sounds of the journey. The anticipation of what one might eat along the way was as integral as the journey itself. As travellers shed inhibitions about eating on the go, the marketplace evolved to meet their growing expectations. The famed maddur vada is one such example, being the invented child of necessity rather than a culinary tradition.

As a young traveller, I invariably ate food on the go rather than home-cooked meals. The multi-compartment steel plate, with its assortment of rice, roti, dal and vegetables, held greater allure than home-cooked food. An abiding memory is of hot puris with sweet shrikhand bought from a platform vendor at Itarsi in Madhya Pradesh.

CLASSY BEGINNINGS

The earliest food options on trains were refreshment rooms at railway stations. Food was served on the platform, never on a train. Base kitchens were set up at the turn of the 20th century to prepare food for first- and second-class passengers, stored in dedicated coaches.

Dining cars appeared in the first decade of the 20th century. Soon, every important long-distance train run by different railway companies had dining cars attached to their consists. But over time, these were discontinued and replaced by pantry cars that catered to a broader passenger base with simpler offerings. The Deccan Queen Express, running between Mumbai and Pune, was a notable exception; it retained the dining car with such iconic snacks as cheese toast and baked beans on toast. Recently it got an upgrade, with interiors blending Victorian sensibilities with plush wooden panelling and furniture and local Warli art.

A DIVERSE MENU

Post independence, as the railway network expanded, Indian Railways operated through pantry cars where limited food, primarily breakfast and snacks, would be cooked for passengers. Meals would be prepared on a large scale at base kitchens at major stations in every zone to be loaded on to trains depending on requirements. Various licensed vendors would hawk their wares on platforms. This ecosystem fed millions of passengers, showcased India’s extraordinary culinary diversity, and had a loyal fan base.

The Madras-Delhi route, for example, fascinated me with its variety. Breakfast might be idli, vada and dosa from Andhra Pradesh. A mid-morning snack could be pakoras from Maharashtra. Lunch at Nagpur—the geographical “zero mile” of India—would usually feature rice, dal, roti, and vegetables (whereas a journey in south India would feature sambar instead of dal). Evening brought more fried snacks from Madhya Pradesh, followed by dinner that was similar in content to lunch, but distinct in taste. The next morning, Agra and Mathura in Uttar Pradesh offered desserts made from thick creamy milk. The food mirrored the land—its ingredients, languages and cultures shifting every few hundred kilometres. Elsewhere too, such memories abound. Luchi-aloo of Kharagpur, litti-choka of Bihar, vada pav of Karjat near Mumbai, the soft idlis of Madurai, and banana fritters from stations in Kerala were not curated experiences, but organic ones—shaped by geography, availability, and the rhythms of train movement.

Though safety concerns later curtailed onboard cooking in most trains, pantry cars on Rajdhani Express continue to serve freshly prepared meals to first-class coach passengers, offering regional Indian cuisine alongside Continental options.

CONSOLIDATION AND EFFICIENCY

In 1999, the Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Company (IRCTC) was set up as a separate entity by the government to manage ticketing and catering operations, leaving the Indian Railways to focus on running trains and maintaining railway infrastructure. IRCTC modernised catering through food plazas, restaurant tie-ups, online ordering services at select stations and standardised supply chains. Hygiene received greater emphasis, with initiatives like Rail Neer bottled water. 

Standardised meal templates improved efficiency and consistency—but at the cost of the chance discovery of a regional specialty or an imperfect but distinctive meal. There was unity, but less diversity.

UNCONQUERED TERRITORY

Standing out in this standardised landscape is the Mandovi Express connecting Mumbai and Madgaon in Goa. Renowned for both quality and variety, it reportedly offers one of the widest spreads on any Indian train, featuring snacks native to the Konkan region as well as other fare commonly served in restaurants.

Ahuja Caterers, who have served this train since 1988, is known for its meticulous standards. Its commitment to quality earned it an ISO certification as early as 2007—a rare distinction in railway catering.

BACK TO BASICS

Despite concerns about hygiene, I do not recall ever falling ill from railway food. But life has come full circle. After a bout of food poisoning in 2025, I am now content to carry food from home. Like the prodigal son, I have returned home.

Well—almost.

For the Mandovi Express, I will make an exception.

A learning and development professional on a break, K.V. Subramanian keenly follows railway developments.