Why a former Soviet base is at the heart of Albania's eco-protest
The Flamingo Revolution is a citizen-led protest in Albania against a planned luxury resort on Sazan Island and the Narta Lagoon, a vital wildlife habitat
Under Enver Hoxha's decades-long rule, Albania became notoriously isolated, turning its coastline into a heavily fortified, self-imposed barrier; however, this very isolation inadvertently preserved parts of the natural landscape, including the Vjosa Delta and Narta Lagoon, a critical habitat for numerous species. Recently, Ivanka Trump expressed interest in developing Sazan Island, adjacent to the lagoon, into a private resort, with Jared Kushner reportedly leading the project, attracting investment from Gulf funds and Albanian oligarchs. This ambitious development plan, leaked to reveal extensive construction of hotels and villas across the coastal wetlands, has sparked widespread protests, dubbed the "Flamingo Revolution," as thousands of Albanians unite against a corrupt political system that prioritizes the dispossession of public land and natural wealth for "strategic" investors over the welfare of local populations. This popular uprising, fighting to protect landscapes that survived Hoxha's isolation, ironically mirrors a regaining of democratic voice for Albanians, who now actively challenge the commodification of their heritage and natural resources, using the symbolism of the flamingos to confront what the article describes as "ugly narcissism."
Under Enver Hoxha's decades-long rule, Albania became notoriously isolated, turning its coastline into a heavily fortified, self-imposed barrier; however, this very isolation inadvertently preserved parts of the natural landscape, including the Vjosa Delta and Narta Lagoon, a critical habitat for numerous species. Recently, Ivanka Trump expressed interest in developing Sazan Island, adjacent to the lagoon, into a private resort, with Jared Kushner reportedly leading the project, attracting investment from Gulf funds and Albanian oligarchs. This ambitious development plan, leaked to reveal extensive construction of hotels and villas across the coastal wetlands, has sparked widespread protests, dubbed the "Flamingo Revolution," as thousands of Albanians unite against a corrupt political system that prioritizes the dispossession of public land and natural wealth for "strategic" investors over the welfare of local populations. This popular uprising, fighting to protect landscapes that survived Hoxha's isolation, ironically mirrors a regaining of democratic voice for Albanians, who now actively challenge the commodification of their heritage and natural resources, using the symbolism of the flamingos to confront what the article describes as "ugly narcissism."
Under Enver Hoxha's decades-long rule, Albania became notoriously isolated, turning its coastline into a heavily fortified, self-imposed barrier; however, this very isolation inadvertently preserved parts of the natural landscape, including the Vjosa Delta and Narta Lagoon, a critical habitat for numerous species. Recently, Ivanka Trump expressed interest in developing Sazan Island, adjacent to the lagoon, into a private resort, with Jared Kushner reportedly leading the project, attracting investment from Gulf funds and Albanian oligarchs. This ambitious development plan, leaked to reveal extensive construction of hotels and villas across the coastal wetlands, has sparked widespread protests, dubbed the "Flamingo Revolution," as thousands of Albanians unite against a corrupt political system that prioritizes the dispossession of public land and natural wealth for "strategic" investors over the welfare of local populations. This popular uprising, fighting to protect landscapes that survived Hoxha's isolation, ironically mirrors a regaining of democratic voice for Albanians, who now actively challenge the commodification of their heritage and natural resources, using the symbolism of the flamingos to confront what the article describes as "ugly narcissism."
Enver Hoxha, Albania’s communist ruler for over four decades, trusted nobody. Not the Soviets, not the Chinese, not the Yugoslavs, and certainly not his own people. Albania, already a mountain fastness, was turned into an ideological one during the Cold War. Europe’s most isolated country, primed to frustrate invaders since the Ottoman times, peered nervously at the world from behind self-imposed walls. Its coastline bristled with military installations, tunnels disappeared into hillsides and concrete pillboxes stared out to sea awaiting invasions that never came.
History, however, relishes ironies. Albania’s isolation helped protect parts of it. While other Mediterranean areas surrendered to the lure of resorts, casinos and condos, stretches of the Albanian coast remained remarkably untouched. One such area is the Vjosa Delta—Europe’s last wild river delta—and the connected Narta Lagoon: the natural habitat of over a thousand species including the endangered Balkan lynx and the rare Mediterranean monk seal. Thousands of pink flamingos gather in these wetlands as do Dalmatian pelicans, herons, avocets, the black stork and the Egyptian vulture; dozens of other migratory species seek refuge there during their annual journeys between Europe and Africa.
Then one day a flaxen-haired princess named Ivanka Trump chanced upon an island called Sazan across the lagoon and she wanted it. To build a private resort where her rich friends could secretly cavort. In stepped her prince, Jared Kushner, he of the Gaza riviera grand notion, to turn her wish into reality. Tributes poured in, reportedly from friendly Gulf sovereign funds; Albanian oligarchs moved in to get their slice of the pie. A couple of years later, after the inconvenient legal hurdles had been sorted out, the bulldozers arrived, the fences went up against the local residents. The blueprints leaked and they covered not just Sazan Island; the coastal wetlands were to be flattened, mowed, gouged, built into thousands of hotel rooms and villas. On such tantalising whims does the destiny of nations lie today; this is how fragile landscapes become premium destinations; heritage turns into inventory.
Perhaps the motivations could lie deeper than a charming whim. Sazan Island was not waiting to be “discovered” by Ms Trump. It is a well-known former military base perched at the entrance to the Strait of Otranto which controls all shipping traffic passing between the Adriatic and the Mediterranean. Its strategic value has been studied for decades; Hormuz has provided a revision lesson. It is equipped with miles of Soviet era tunnels, submarine pens, deep water anchorages and nuclear survivable bunkers. Strategic locations do not cease being strategic merely because they acquire luxury brochures.
But the blueprints did not factor in the flamingos.
Thousands of Albanians, enraged by decades of corrupt political capture, decided that Albania is not for sale. Holding flamingo placards, they have poured out every evening, for over four weeks now, on to the streets of Tirana. The Flamingo Revolution is no longer about one high-profile project: it is a direct rebellion against a system—government and opposition alike—that believes in accumulation through dispossession, against a flawed development model that transfers public land and natural wealth to powerful, so called “strategic” investors, who promise, but rarely deliver jobs, growth and welfare for the locals.
There is a final irony. Under Hoxha, Albanians had no voice in deciding their destiny. Today they are exercising precisely that voice to defend landscapes that survived, in part, because of the isolation he imposed. The flamingos of Narta Lagoon may know nothing of ideology, investment funds or strategic locations. But they certainly know how to interrupt the smooth march of inevitability; they know how to show a mirror to ugly narcissism.
The author was India’s high commissioner to the UK and ambassador to the United States.