"We call her Rani; she is the queen of our forest,” says Sanghamitra, my guide, as she tells me about the endemic brown-winged kingfisher found in the Bhitarkanika National Park. I am aboard a cruise for a two-night stay, in the hope of spotting ‘Rani’, among other species seen here.
A close to four-hour drive gets me to Gupti Jetty, where I board and set sail immediately. Even as I am having lunch – a traditional Odiya thali – I see a large flock of Lesser Whistling Ducks. The sight of these wonderful chestnut, rufous-hued birds sets my adrenaline soaring, and I know that this will be the start of a journey that will be memorable.
And I am not wrong; very quickly, the crew draws my attention to my first sighting of the famed inhabitants of these waters – the saltwater crocodile. I am thrilled, as this is a huge one – locally called Kalia. The sighting is special, as the crocodile had its mouth open, and suddenly, it just splashed into the water from the shore.
The picture-perfect moment was the beginning, as I started seeing more avian species – the sand plover, Eurasian whimbrel, common greenshank, pond herons, cattle egrets, grey herons, and more. The landscape is serene – this is a perfect example of slow travel, as the silence here is only punctuated by birdsong. The rich and unique mangrove ecosystems with creeks, mudflats, and estuaries are home to a diverse variety of flora and fauna that makes each moment memorable.
Sailing along, there is more birdlife – I see four varieties of kingfishers – the white-throated, pied, black-capped, and common kingfishers. The birder in me is, however, still looking for the elusive brown-winged kingfisher. Passing by small hamlets, the deeper parts of the river are just about enjoying nature in all its glory.
And just when I was thinking that perhaps I would not be able to see it, the crew alerts me, 'There is Rani.’ Peering into a thicket where I seemed to only see branches, I suddenly spot the brown-winged kingfisher – a lifer, and I am thrilled. The brown-winged kingfisher bird is stunning with a scarlet red bill, vibrant orange-brown head, dark chocolate-brown wings, and a bright turquoise-blue rump. And the wait was worth it, as the bird decides to pose for a while before flying off. It’s a high before I call it a night.
The next day, I am up early in the morning for a jungle walk at Dangamal, which is also home to the spotted deer, monitor lizard, wild boar, Indian python, and rhesus macaque, apart from a variety of birds. This place is also home to a heronry, and I am told the place is abuzz with painted storks in the breeding season. The walk is fruitful, with sightings of the orange-headed thrush, jungle fowl, and more. Walking deeper into the jungle, I stop at a beautiful water body and see a rare sight of a ruddy shelduck, as well as a pair of pied avocets.
Back on the catamaran, I have breakfast and set off on a small boat to explore the smaller creeks and see an amazing section of waterways and the stunning views of the mangroves. It is a sight that is in equal parts beautiful and breathtaking. There are many crocodiles as well, in different sizes, all out sunbathing on the mudflats surrounding the mangroves.
Interestingly, there are 94 species of mangroves belonging to 28 families in this region that are on either side of the Brahmani-Baitarani rivers. The estuaries, rivulets, and creeks here are a great way to discover the wild side of Odisha, and it is sure to leave you with memories that will last you a lifetime."