I am sitting on Bill Clinton’s seat!
At Bukhara, the world’s most famous Indian restaurant, ‘agelessness’ has been one of the secret sauces, which means everything has remained the same for 45 years — the decor, the chequered apron, the open kitchen plan, the log-top tables, and the menu. Right down to the seat and upholstery that hosted America’s First Derriere more than two decades ago for the first time—the then-US President was so bowled over that he visited five times after that! And that which I am sitting on, as chef culinaire JP Singh informs me.
Starting Friday, Bukhara commemorates its nearly five-decade journey with a week-long food promotion. Over the weekend, from April 5 to 7, it will stay open nonstop for 45 hours to host food aficionados at its one and only location, at Delhi’s ITC Maurya.
It is no ordinary diner. Back in the late seventies, India was still very much in the socialist ethos, and five star hotels even in the national capital could be counted on one’s fingers. One amongst them was the ITC group’s initial foray into hotels, then called Maurya Sheraton. Bukhara opened as a specialty restaurant featuring Peshawari, or to be specific, food from the North West Frontier Province of erstwhile British India (which is now in present-day Pakistan).
And it has never looked back. Accolades have included being listed in the world’s, and Asia’s, list of 50 best restaurants, Golden Fork Award, Favourite Restaurant in Indian Hotels, Iconic Restaurant and more. It was also a regular presence in THE WEEK’s ‘India’s Best Restaurants’ list back in the 2010s.
“The unchanged menu, a testament to timelessness, has remained an everlasting favourite amongst celebrities and heads of states showcasing nuances of the region,” said ITC Hotels CEO Anil Chadha, “We take immense pride in our ability to delight palates and showcase gastronomic excellence with the rich tapestry of flavours from the North-West frontier at our global award-winning restaurant.”
Right from the start, and down the years, Bukhara embraced its uniqueness proudly, and unwaveringly. Besides the menu, the interiors, too, have remained the same. Guests, even the hoity toitiest of world leaders are encouraged to eat with their hands, the way it is done in those mountainous regions (though cutlery is provided on request). Items like the legendary naan Bukhara, best had with its signature dal Bukhara which is slow-cooked for at least 18 hours, are humongous and emphasise the concept of ‘breaking bread’ in a communal meal. And no tweaking of the menu to requests — there is no rice item in the menu, and no they won’t get any biryani or rice from the nearby ‘Dum Pukht’ restaurant which serves Awadhi cuisine, even if you request.
It has also resisted the temptation to branch out, except for a few pop-ups, a supermarket product line from ITC called ‘Kitchens of India’ which features the dal Bukhara in tinned format, and a short-lived outpost in New York. There is only one Bukhara, and if you want to get a taste of the unique, multi-sensory experience of a meal there, you would have to come all the way to Delhi.
