The Nanda Devi expedition was a profound spiritual journey, emphasizing humility and respect for the mountain, rather than conquest. Climbers faced extreme challenges including a perilous gorge, hazardous terrain, and severe weather, which tested their endurance and resolve. Significant discoveries included remnants of American surveillance and nuclear equipment, prompting their removal from the sacred site. A near-fatal fall during the summit bid underscored the inherent dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, ultimately teaching that true achievement is a safe return with lasting memories and minimal environmental impact.

The Nanda Devi expedition was a profound spiritual journey, emphasizing humility and respect for the mountain, rather than conquest. Climbers faced extreme challenges including a perilous gorge, hazardous terrain, and severe weather, which tested their endurance and resolve. Significant discoveries included remnants of American surveillance and nuclear equipment, prompting their removal from the sacred site. A near-fatal fall during the summit bid underscored the inherent dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, ultimately teaching that true achievement is a safe return with lasting memories and minimal environmental impact.

The Nanda Devi expedition was a profound spiritual journey, emphasizing humility and respect for the mountain, rather than conquest. Climbers faced extreme challenges including a perilous gorge, hazardous terrain, and severe weather, which tested their endurance and resolve. Significant discoveries included remnants of American surveillance and nuclear equipment, prompting their removal from the sacred site. A near-fatal fall during the summit bid underscored the inherent dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, ultimately teaching that true achievement is a safe return with lasting memories and minimal environmental impact.

For me, Nanda Devi was never just another Himalayan peak. It was the Devisthan, the abode of the Goddess. We were not going there merely to conquer a mountain; we were going there with humility, conscious that the mountain would ultimately decide whether we succeeded.

We approached the challenge with professional discipline, but we also understood that Nanda Devi demanded something more than technical competence. We entered the sanctuary through the Rishi Ganga gorge from Reni village. The approach itself was an expedition. The gorge was narrow and intimidating, with the river raging far below us, and crossing it at different points required considerable skill and courage.

After establishing the base camp at Sarson Patal, we found the terrain had changed considerably since the earlier expedition. The glaciers were active, while the lake near our camp posed its own threat.

From there began the painstaking task of establishing the higher camps. Carrying loads, opening the route and stocking the camps at such altitude were exhausting. Camp 3, at around 22,000 feet, was particularly demanding. High winds, blizzards, collapsing tents, hunger and even an accidental fire tested our endurance.

During our climb from camp 3 towards the American Summit Camp (camp 5), we found an abandoned WD cable. We immediately knew that it was not mountaineering equipment. Given our professional knowledge and familiarity with the equipment from the earlier expedition, we were convinced that it was part of the American surveillance device and had probably been carried away by an avalanche.

A few days later, Major (Dr) Rajesh Bhardwaj discovered two empty aluminium boxes while returning from the advance base camp. Only one of them could be recovered. The case had openings, and the glass fitted into them had broken, leaving it empty. From its construction, size and location, we were convinced that these objects were remnants of the housing and associated components of the nuclear generator system, and we decided that they should not be left on the mountain.

But all of this was secondary to the challenge that lay ahead.

Our summit attempt began in the early hours of June 13, 1993. At one point, while climbing on an old rope, it suddenly gave way, and I fell approximately 20 feet. For a few terrifying seconds, I thought I was going to fall thousands of feet. Reacting instinctively, I managed to catch another rope, which probably saved my life. Looking back, I sometimes wonder whether it was simply training and instinct, or whether Nanda Devi herself had intervened.

After hours of climbing, I finally reached the summit at about 4.35pm. I looked back at the sanctuary and across the surrounding peaks. There was an extraordinary silence. I did not feel that I had conquered Nanda Devi. I felt that I had been permitted to enter the abode of the Goddess.

Nanda Devi taught me that a mountain is not conquered by standing on its summit. The real achievement is to return safely, carry its memories with you, and leave behind as little of your footprint as possible.

Major General Naik, SM (retd), an Arjuna awardee, is a former Corps of Engineers officer of the Army, a mountaineer and a sportsman.

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