INDIA HAS A rich history of alcohol. The vedas frequently mention soma rasa, the nectar of the gods. Thanks to India’s cultural and religious diversity, it hosts a tremendous range of native brews. Most of them are crafted from local grains or starches—such as coconut sap—yet many have not transitioned beyond backyard stills, as they often turn sour within hours.
Two breakthrough spirits, feni and mahua, are currently competing for the title of India’s true native spirit. In a country this vast, there is ample room for both to flourish, and perhaps others also like arrack, if legalised.
Mahua is perhaps India’s oldest known spirit. The mahua tree holds a connection to the land’s inhabitants. The spirit is derived from the tree’s flowers which, once dried, undergo fermentation and distillation. As no other flower remains so sugar-rich when dried, mahua is regarded as the world’s only spirit originating from a flower.
In 1892, to protect the economic interests of British alcohol imports, the British passed the Bombay Abkari Act and the Mhowra Act, which banned the production and collection of the flower. This severely impacted South Seas Distilleries, a company with a century-old heritage. South Seas recently launched Six Brothers Mahura, a premium product retailing in Maharashtra, Karnataka and Goa and shortly to be available in Haryana, Chandigarh as also Gujarat.
Feni’s journey is equally storied. Following the liberation of Goa in 1961, feni remained under older legal frameworks. It did not fit the Indian Made Foreign Liquor (IMFL) classification applied to British-style spirits like whisky or rum. Instead, it was classified as country liquor. While this kept taxes low and the spirit accessible, it restricted exports to other Indian states and somewhat diminished its status.
There are two primary types of feni: One made from the cashew fruit, and the other distilled from coconut tree sap. There are believed to be 19 variations of coconut feni, each defined by a single flavouring agent. Unlike gin, which uses multiple botanicals, feni uses a potli (sack) tied to the still’s mouth, allowing flavours to pass into the liquid via vapour infusion. Historically, these were used medicinally: jeera (cumin) for upset stomach, aale (ginger) for sore throat, and kodu (bitter) for diabetes.
The tide is turning. Entrepreneurs are raising the bar for quality and branding. Both cashew and coconut feni have received geographical indication (GI) status. Furthermore, states like Madhya Pradesh are reclassifying mahua as a ‘heritage spirit’, moving it away from the ‘country liquor’ label.
Tourism is also playing a role. The Cazulo Fazenda in Goa has become a destination for its ‘Floating Feni’ experience. Meanwhile, sophisticated cocktail bars in Mumbai, Bhopal and Panjim are integrating these spirits into evolved beverage programmes. Recently, at the prestigious Spirits Selection by CMB in Mexico, Six Brothers Mahura and Cazulo’s Dukhshiri Feni won silver medals, marking a global coming-of-age for India’s native spirits.
—The writer is founder & CEO of Tulleeho, one of India’s leading alcobev consultancies and also co-founder of 30BestBars India and the India Bartender Show.