Vienna’s skyline may often be linked with Otto Wagner, the modernist visionary who transformed the city at the turn of the 20th century. Yet decades before Wagner, it was Theophil Edvard Hansen (1813–1891) who laid the groundwork for the Austrian capital’s grandeur. Hansen’s neoclassical designs gave Vienna its architectural character, a design language that continues to define its character today.
“To understand Vienna as it is now, you must understand Hansen,” says Barbara Vrdlovec, a born-and-bred Viennese guide with a passion for art and culture. “He was one of the great architects of the Ringstrasse — and that name refers not just to a street, but to a whole era. It was the time of great building projects that changed the face of Vienna, transforming it from a fortified city into a modern metropolis.”
Hansen’s architectural journey began far from Vienna. “He studied in Athens and was deeply influenced by the classical ideals of beauty and proportion,” Vrdlovec adds. “You see that most clearly in the Parliament, which feels almost like a Greek temple.”
My walk, tracing Hansen’s footsteps, begins at Anantara Palais Hansen Vienna, the only hotel he designed. Built for the 1873 World Exhibition, this grand palace on the Ringstrasse exemplified imperial ambition and modern progress. Its Ionic columns, sculpted reliefs, and classical symmetry pay homage to ancient Greece, Hansen’s lifelong muse.
Following a meticulous, multibillion-euro restoration completed in April 2025, the building has entered a new chapter. Frescoed ceilings, stucco flourishes, while marble and soft lighting combine to create quiet luxury.
The hotel pays tribute to the master architect with a curated Theophil Hansen Experience. “We wanted to celebrate Vienna’s architectural heritage in a way that’s personal and immersive, not just informative,” says Vedad Bakovic, Director of Sales & Marketing at the property. “Our hotel was designed by Hansen himself, so it made sense to tell his story from within these walls.”
The experience includes guided walks across Hansen’s landmarks and collaborations with Vienna’s historic artisans. “We partnered with AE Köchert, the royal jewellers who worked with Hansen,” Bakovic adds. “Guests can try on jewellery he helped design and hear stories directly from the Köchert family; it’s a journey into history through craftsmanship and storytelling.”
Among the guides leading these tours is Vrdlovec, who runs thematic walks exploring Vienna through architecture, music, and café culture. Her Hansen walk, she tells me, remains among her most popular. “This was the age of the new industrial class,” she explains as we stroll down the Ringstrasse. “Before that, you were either nobility or you were not. But now, successful business families were building new palaces and wanted the best architects. Hansen was one of the most sought after.”
The Austrian Parliament Building, completed in 1883, stands tall as a monument to democracy and is undoubtedly Hansen’s masterpiece. The magnificent structure showcases distinctly Greek influences: Corinthian columns, sculpted pediments, and stark marble. Statues of philosophers and statesmen line the approach, seeming to lead to the elegant fountain.
A short walk away, the Musikverein, home of the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra, reveals Hansen’s skill in merging form with function, art with acoustics. The famed Golden Hall, bathed in light and ornamentation, remains one of the most beautiful concert venues in the world. Nearby, at the Academy of Fine Arts, the stately façade and grand staircase reveal Hansen’s thought process: that beauty was a form of civic instruction.
Later, as the afternoon light softens, we arrive at St Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna’s Gothic heart. Though it predates Hansen by centuries, it feels like a fitting conclusion and seems to anchor a city defined by continuity.
Outside, a fiaker, one of Vienna’s traditional horse-drawn carriages, awaits. The rhythmic clip-clop of hooves makes for an interesting soundtrack as we head back over to the Ringstrasse. The landmarks of Hansen’s Vienna blur in the background, but it’s clear that the master architect’s vision is very much alive in the Austrian capital.