The cormorant stretches its graceful snake-like neck and opens its wings towards the sun in flash of black. The little water hen picks through the grass peacefully. The black-and-white magpie robin whistles its fluting call and flies up to the Mangaluru tile roof of my villa. I sit on my private deck, savouring my filter coffee as I look out for my newfound friends. It’s been only a day, and this is already a ritual that I look forward to. That’s the beauty of being at the Gateway Bekal, a new resort by the IHCL (Taj) Group in Kasaragod in northern Kerala. It boasts 151 guestrooms, cottages and suites, banqueting spaces, a pool, gym, and spa, all arrayed across a lush 30-acre property that is perched prettily on a languid lagoon. It has so much space and greenery, that nature feels comfortable here.
As am I, of course. My gated cottage has a private sit out, a patio at the back that flanks a lawn and a water body, and its own gleaming jacuzzi. Traditional Kerala-style architecture, polished wooden four-poster beds and a gorgeous inlaid table, are perfectly complemented by the well-appointed bathroom, lighting, and temperature control. A cunningly camouflaged coffee and tea station has all the accoutrements one needs for a good cuppa. And an intricately inlaid table by the couch is loaded with snacks to munch on, from silky banana chips to velvety Kerala halwa to some exquisite chocolate and madeleines!
Around the resort
So, as much as I could spend all day pottering around my calm cottage, nibbling on the goodies, I am drawn to all the activities at the resort too. They have a rather evolved birdwatching programme, which encourages guests of all ages to spot and identify a variety of species. Outdoor chess on the life-sized board makes for a fun evening, as does a stroll down the water’s edge to witness a glorious sunset near their amphitheatre. Cooling off is a pleasure in their expansive pool, which has a shallow one for young guests adjoining it. Their picture-perfect gym gives you all you need for holiday fitness. The spa, which will be operational soon, has five Ayurvedic treatment rooms and five for Western-style massages, including an ample one for couples’ therapies. Dr Padmanabhan, who heads their wellness programme, tells me they plan to have a restaurant serving wellness cuisine next to the spa too.
Thoughtfully curated
For now, though, all the dining needs of the resort are served by the Earth Pavilion. The multi-cuisine restaurant that seats up to 170 is where one can enjoy a nice buffet breakfast spread, an a la carte menu, themed fine-dining meals presented course by course, and even an entire Kerala sadya (feast) served on banana leaf! And living up to their name, they really act as a gateway to the destination, by representing various regions of Kerala on a plate.
The mopplah chef’s menu we have for dinner one night features dishes such as the delicately layered Ottu Pola Appam, a Kasaragod speciality which is made in a clay pan, along with Kappa Kuzhachathu, a unique tapioca mash, mushrooms cooked with Thalassery black pepper, and a Meen Manga Curry (fish in a creamy coconut and raw mango curry). The flavours are fresh and quite different from other Kerala meals we’ve eaten, something we appreciate as frequent travellers. The tender coconut pudding has the perfect wobble and is so sensational in taste, it breaks our resolve to avoid overeating. The Asian meal by the poolside is another unforgettable experience, with the creation of a beautiful setting, the right music to set the mood, and a bright moon that almost seems as though it was orchestrated for the occasion by the hotel’s stellar team!
Not only with dining, but the resort also curates some beautiful experiences for guests. From watching the handloom in operation in their airy lobby, to a grand Mohiniyattam dance performance once the oil lamps are lit, you feel quite in touch with the traditional.
The rest of Bekal beckons
The excursions they plan are similarly rooted in local experiences.
Nature trail: We spend a wonderful morning at Thonikadu, where Rathnakaran takes us on a small hike through his 100-acre property that encompasses hills, forests, streams, and even a laterite cave network! We see how rubber is tapped and processed, and how natural materials are used for making bags. Along the way, he gives us several leaves to smell or taste, introducing us to these indigenous wild herbs. We walk down to a bubbling brook where the little fish nibble at our toes and the sunbeams dapple the surface of the clear water. He encourages us to explore the narrow tunnels in the laterite caves, overcoming our distaste for cobwebs and creepy-crawlies. Muddy and messy, we wash up in a natural water supply that comes from water that is collected inside the porous rock. Yellow-and-black Southern Birdwing butterflies (the largest in India!) accompany us back to the top of the hill, where a beautiful bento box of freshly made pasta, salad, and dessert await us. A fancy meal after a refreshing morning. Rathnakaran tells us about his homestay and rustic meals cooked on wood fire that can be enjoyed if you decide to stay longer.
River cruise: But our next Bekal adventure awaits. A short drive away and we are at a jetty. A number of houseboats ply on the river, offering comfortable rooms and freshly cooked food. For us, it’s a leisurely afternoon of watching the palm-lined islands glide by as we sip on chilled fresh lime water. This is bliss, we think. But we haven’t even seen the best part of Bekal yet!
Fort stop: The 17th century Bekal Fort that we head to next was built by local king Shivappa Nayak of Bednur, later captured by Tipu Sultan, and then occupied by the British East India Company when he was defeated. It’s a fabulous fortification in a gorgeous location right by the sea. What’s special about it is how impeccably maintained it is today. Not a speck of rubbish in sight, perfectly laid out pathways, bastions reaching into the waves, with a sandy beach at its feet. The red laterite walls rising imposingly up into a clear blue sky, with darling green bee-eaters dashing about the 40-acre expanse. Our only regret is not getting here sooner in the day. Thankfully, the Gateway Bekal is a mere 20-minute drive away, so we can visit again.
The business of Bekal
One thing has been made amply clear on our visit. Bekal, although in the touristy God’s Own Country, is an underrated destination, and one well worth exploring. Which explains why the IHCL Group, after its luxurious Taj Bekal already quite popular, has chosen to add 151 more keys with the premium Gateway property. As J Gopalakrishnan, General Manager, Gateway Bekal, points out, the resort is leased from and supported by the state government’s initiative (Bekal Resorts Development Corporation) to develop Bekal as a tourist spot, especially for money-spinning destination weddings, which have become Bekal’s USP in the last few years.