Rayong—a quaint fishing town abutting the Gulf of Thailand—punches far above its weight in terms of visitor attractions. Located on Thailand's eastern seaboard, this beach town still remains an undiscovered gem minus breathless hordes.
What prompted me to visit Rayong, however, was its accessibility from capital city Bangkok, an easy two-and-a-half hour drive. Besides, it was en route Thailand's other three eastern cities—Chanthaburi, Chonburi and Pattaya—I was exploring on my recent holiday.
Fringed by a 100 kilometre-long coastline, Rayong is peppered with velvety beaches, gurgling waterfalls and gorgeous greenery. It also has a bustling street market and a happening nightlife. What's not to love? Rayong ticks all the boxes for a quintessentially Thai vacation.
But strangely, my introduction to Rayong takes place not through one of its stunning beaches (though I do head there later), but through the exotic Kru Kung Museum. No ordinary museum this. Located in the Kram Klaeng district, the place is a trove of antiques and everyday items housed in the unpretentious home of Somkiat Boonchuayleau, a 64-year-old retired school teacher. It showcases his staggering personal collection of all the objects he has lovingly bought, restored and revived over 40 years.
As I move around the collector's capacious wooden house, I stumble upon a smorgasbord of ancient clocks, trunks, doorknobs, furniture, hand-wound cameras, porcelain tea sets, even an ancient tuk tuk (three-wheeler)! "I've built this collection over four decades," the toothless and frail museum owner tells us with the help of a translator.
Apart from such charming attractions, Rayong offers plenty of surf and sand as well. Sink your toes into the soft golden sand of the longest beach on Thailand's eastern coast—Mae Ramphung Beach. Lined by casuarina trees, it has food shacks serving delectable seafood and local delights. Those seeking to spike their adrenaline can go swimming, paddling or snorkelling. If you'd rather relax with a beer under an umbrella, head to the park that cuts through the beach offering well-manicured palm-fringed gardens with lots of places to rest in shade.
If you're a nature lover, the dense Khao Chamao-Khao Wong National Park—spread over a whopping 20,000 acres—is the place to go. A rich tropical forest, it sustains bountiful flora and fauna while well-marked trails allow you to observe the wilderness and wildlife thriving in this natural habitat. Fed by the Prasae River system, the park also provides tents and lodges for adventurers.
However, my favourite place in town turned out to be the Rayong Aquarium, home to diverse and fascinating marine life. As I peered through the glasses of the aquarium, gigantic sharks, spotted turtles, stingrays, and an array of vibrant fish, including the popular clown fish, flirted with me. The fossil museum next door displays extinct animals as well as rare species like the Irrawaddy and humpback dolphins. The museum also holds exhibitions, showcasing the life of the fishermen and various fishing tools.
They say that to get under the skin of a place, you must explore its markets. So I head next to the atmospheric Yom Jinda Walking Street to get a feel of local culture. It is lined with charming wood houses, Chinese shrines, Thai temples, exquisite French-Indochinese buildings and other historic landmarks. Shops sell authentic Thai snacks and handicrafts. Music, dance, puppet shows and a night market all add to the street's vibrancy.
As we admire the street's historic landmarks, guide Khun Pat talks about Rayong's important place in Thai history. "The town is best known as a resting point for Thai general and later king, Taksin during his quest to rebuild an army that went on to vanquish Burmese forces from Ayuthya in the late 1760s," she elaborates as we snap photos of a shrine dedicated to King Taksin at Wat Lum Mahachai Chumphon.
While cars and chemicals power Rayong’s economy, fruit and seafood are its most famous local products. Each year during the rainy months, the massive Tapong Fruit Market explodes with delicious fruits—the spiky, stinky durian, rambutan, snakefruit, mangosteens, lychees, dragon fruit, passion fruit and more. Dozens of colourful boats selling fresh seafood bob up and down on the spot where Rayong River meets the Gulf of Thailand, Pat says as I wistfully recreate the salubrious images of the location in my mind's eye.
Neeta Lal is a Delhi-based Editor and journalist