TAWANG
Down the high ridgelines of Tibet into the glacier-carved valleys of Arunachal Pradesh is the remote eastern frontier of Tawang, where the Dalai Lama and his entourage entered India in 1959. They halted for the night at Gorsam Chorten in Zemithang, where villagers gathered to catch a glimpse of the spiritual leader. A 100-foot stupa here has become a point of attraction for visitors.
Today, Tawang is no longer a remote frontier with memories of hoofbeats and foot trails. This became evident recently, when elite paddlers from Europe and across India straddled the icy-blue, snow-fed waters of the Tawangchu river in bright, colourful kayaks—a sight that reflected the sporting transformation of the Himalayas.
From the placid flatwaters of Coesfeld in Germany to the glacier-fed currents of Arunachal Pradesh, the journey of international kayakers like Marisa Kaup has been one of discovery—both personal and professional. “I grew up in a place where we did not have whitewater around—just a few slalom gates on a flat river. That’s where I learnt to paddle,” she says. Now based in Augsburg, Kaup still chases rainfall for natural river runs. “I always have to drive a few hours and it’s dependent on rain,” she says.
In contrast, glacier-fed rivers offer consistency and thrill. “The Tawangchu river wasn’t very hard for me, but the race section is fun. It has some good whitewater upstream,” she says. Kaup’s victory at the recently concluded Tawangchu Tides International Kayaking Championship (TTIKC) has given her confidence to face tougher challenges. She plans to return to India to compete again with Indian paddlers, whose skills are honed in the Tawangchu tides.
French kayaker Benjamin Jacon conveys a sense of awe. A former world and European championship slalom competitor, Jacon has travelled the world chasing whitewater. Though it was his first visit to Tawang, he had earlier experienced the coastal connect at the Malabar river festival in Kerala. “This place is very special, beautiful, far from big cities and close to Bhutan,” Jacon reflects. “It is a real playground for kayakers.”
What made his experience unique was the cultural immersion and local hospitality that forged bonds deeper than the one between paddle and current. “I have so much more now. It is a strong emotional moment for me,” he said, receiving his medal from Kiren Rijiju, Union minister for parliamentary affairs. Rijiju himself stepped into a kayak during the closing ceremony of the technically demanding competition, lending warmth to the proceedings.
The championship also highlighted India’s rising homegrown talent. Shikha Chouhan and Bhumi Baghel from Madhya Pradesh clinched top honours, alongside Elizabeth Vincent from Meghalaya. Shikha, 18, and Bhumi, 20, were training in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh, when they were spotted by Bilquis Mir, chairperson of Indian Kayaking and Canoeing Association. Bilquis mentored them for six years, until they became champions in wild water canoe slalom.
Hailing from Kashmir, Bilquis is a beacon of inspiration for young athletes, especially those from the margins. She began kayaking at the age of six on Dal Lake in 1998, training with a modest canoe club and ageing boats. Through perseverance and international exposure, she rose through the ranks and went on to serve as a jury member at the Paris Olympics 2024—a milestone for Indian women in water sports. A passionate advocate of scouting for grassroots talent, she is now grooming young paddlers from across the country for international competitions.
Support from Pema Khandu, chief minister of Arunachal Pradesh and a sporting enthusiast himself, is making her task easier. Urging the youth to shape a “Viksit Arunachal” by 2047, Khandu recognises that sporting events such as kayaking can boost infrastructure and jobs, and bring a renewed sense of vibrancy to border villages. The championship had made remote villages such as Kharung and Bongleng come alive.
Once the spiritual gateway for the Dalai Lama’s India entry, Tawang has travelled far—thanks to the civil administration’s efforts to improve infrastructure, communication and tourist facilities. The frontier that once symbolised exile is now evolving into a sporting arena for kayakers from across the world.