I first spotted the sleepy town of Balapitiya on a train ride from Galle to Colombo. I promised to come back and discover this quaint town and kept my date two years later. This hidden gem along Sri Lanka’s southern coast is just two hours of Colombo and yet a world away. It’s close to some of the country’s popular tourist destinations like Galle but offers a more laidback beach vibe that truly allows you to unwind.
Take the scenic route: almost all paths to Balapitiya are charming. It’s just under 2 hours away from the Colombo International Airport but I’d recommend taking the train from Colombo if you’re planning a longer stay in Sri Lanka. This two-hour journey is one of the most scenic train rides in South Asia and hugs the country’s western coastline.
Beach blues
Balapitiya offers a few boutique stay options and you can also choose to stay at the more popular tourist town of Bentota (about 30 minutes away). Kumu Beach, an intimate luxury getaway allows you to truly immerse yourself in Balapitiya and its coastal vibes. It’s perched on a secluded beach that’s great to catch the town’s fabled sunsets. The beach is almost an extension of the infinity pool in the resort, perfect for strolls or an ocean dip just after sunrise. Sri Lankan beach chic comes to the fore in the interiors of the resort imagined by Annika Fernando, one of the country’s leading designers. You can opt for a private candlelit dinner on the edge of the ocean or also explore Sri Lanka’s culinary heritage at this boutique resort.
Culture trails
Balapitiya is just five minutes away from Ambalagonda, the heart of Sri Lanka’s mask making traditions. Sri Lanka’s traditional, colourful masks are carved from Kaduru trees that grow in the vicinity, the wood is usually smoke dried before being used for the masks. You can visit one of the many mask makers in this town and plan a stop at the Ambalagonda Mask Museum, that showcases different types of masks that have been traditionally used for dancing rituals. The team at Kumu Beach also organises Vesak lantern or kite making sessions that allow you to craft colourful lanterns and kites that are typically used to celebrate the Vesak Festival.
Explore mangrove forests
You’ll have wake up early to make it to the sunrise cruise on the Madu River area. It’s truly worth sacrificing your sleep. Early morning is the best time to spot kingfishes and cormorants that are among the 100-plus species of birds that inhabit the surrounds. The cruise scythes through dense mangrove forests before arriving in a large lake. Most early morning cruises also make a pit-stop at one of the islands in the Madu River where you can witness the traditional process of cinnamon cultivation and buy high quality cinnamon.
Up close and personal with Geoffrey Bawa
Lunuganga, is thirty minutes away from Balapitiya and offers a peek into the mind of one of Sri Lanka’s best-known architects – Geoffrey Bawa. His legacy continues to inspire a whole new generation of Sri Lankan architects. Lunuganga was once his weekend retreat that’s located on the edge of the Dedduwa Lake near Bentota. This retreat has now morphed into a charming 10-room resort spread over 15 acres of tropical gardens that were created over four decades. The resort offers tours for non-residents (typically USD 20-30/head) that takes you through thoughtfully crafted architectural flourishes, leaf-framed lake vistas and lush green gardens that will wow design buffs and nature lovers alike.
Balapitiya is one of those coastal towns that channels Sri Lanka’s relaxed vibe and warm hospitality. It’s still untouched by the excesses of over tourism. You are not far away from destinations like Bentota or Galle (you can plan it as a half-day trip) and yet in a private beach haven where time stands still.