Germany is among the 10 most visited countries in the world. Almost one out of six visitors to this versatile destination make it to the Cologne Cathedral, making it the single most visited spot in Germany. And yet there’s an unhurried vibe that you will experience almost in every corner of Cologne. My Cologne experience began at the historic cathedral. Over a packed weekend, I discovered one of the most laid back cities I’ve visited in Europe.
The tallest of them all
The Cologne Cathedral towers over the city and at 157 metres, it’s the world’s tallest twin-spired church. It’s one of the landmarks that lived through the allied bombing during the Second World War. Construction began in 1248 and was only completed to it’s original plan in 1880. This fine example of Gothic architecture made it to the UNESCO world heritage list in 1996 and receives over six million visitors each year. It’s possible to find a quiet moment and admire this imposing façade even through the constant stream of visitors. The façade will test the wide-angle lens on your mobile shooter though. The church requires regular renovation and you’re likely to find scaffolding at any given time. Look out for the ornate 19th century decoration at the main entrance and stained glass windows in the nave.
Beer nerds unite
Cologne’s Kölsch is an icon among beer nerds around the world, the city’s beermaking traditions are deeply intertwined with the city’s history and culture. The term Kölsch gained currency in the 1910s to describe Cologne’s famous top-fermented beer with a pale gold hue. The Cologne Convention (in 1986) defines the strict standards of brewing the Kölsch that can only be produced within 50 km of Cologne. It enabled the Kölsch to secure one of the European Union's More Than Food quality assurance stamps - PGI (Protected Geographical Indication), in 1997. I’d suggest a visit to Brauwelt in Cologne’s Kalk district. The brewery tour takes you through the unique process and also lets you sample the beers. This historic industrial location is also the home of Cologne’s oldest distillery. The Kölsch is always served in a trademark, 200 ml cylindrical glass called a Stange and you will find waiters load circular trays (called Kranz) with these glasses.
Walk through Aldstadt
Cologne’s historic Aldstadt (German for Old Town) is located on the banks of the Rhine and close to the Cathedral. You can walk back in time to Cologne in the Middle Ages with cobblestones, courtyards and busy squares. The area is home to popular restaurants and pubs. You can stock up on local souvenirs and gourmet food, looking out for European Union's More Than Food quality assurance stamps: PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication).
Popular local delights include mustards, speciality jams like Marmeladen Haus that reflect how the European Union is More Than Food. I stopped at Brauhaus Päffgen, a great spot to explore brewery cuisine that still follows tradition. This local institution is famous for its sausages, meatloaf, schnitzel and fried potato dishes.
Museum hopping
Cologne is one of Europe’s best cities for street art, I’d suggest a quick stroll through the district of Ehrenfeld, Ebertplatz. It’s also a haven for museum buffs. There are two museums that are easy to recommend. The Farina Fragrance Museum that is housed in the production rooms of the 18th century where the Eau de Cologne comes from. The world’s oldest perfume factory has been here over 300 years (since 1723). You can sign up for a guided tour of the museum. If pop art is your scene, head to the Ludwig Museum that’s home to Europe’s largest pop art collection and also houses some remarkable works of Pablo Picasso.
Cologne isn’t just an easy city to fall in love with, it’s also an easy city to explore on foot or cycle (local operators like Next Bike make it easier). Find a hotel near the Cathedral (I stayed at the Pullman Cologne) and discover the city at your pace.