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Colombo: A city blending ancient charm with modern luxury

The capital city of the island nation of Sri Lanka is making a compelling case for becoming a destination that is a mix of food, culture, art and architecture

Galle Face

 “This is about the lotus flower that grows in muddy waters but still blooms beautifully. It reflects how people go through difficult times but use their inner strength to overcome them and keep going,” explains a young intern who is showing me around at the newly opened City of Dreams at Cinnamon Life in Colombo. She is pointing to a stunning artwork by Hashan Cooray, and it strikes me almost immediately that this is also a representation of how the country’s denizens are looking ahead after some turbulent issues in the past.

I am in Colombo and start my day with a personal favourite – a walk at Galle Face. The elevated pedestal-like path where the Indian Ocean is seen in all its majesty dashing against the black rocks makes for the best morning walk. As I trace my steps back, I stop at the 172-year-old Christ Church, which was founded in 1853. A pristine white structure, the stained glass murals here are amazing. I strike up a conversation with a local who looks after the place, who tells me that Prime Minister Narendra Modi had also visited this place.

City of Dreams at Cinnamon Life

On this walk, I notice several old buildings whose architecture is a mix of colonial and art deco as well as shiny new glass facades and cannot help but appreciate how the city has embraced the old and the new. And much like this, this is how the city has a harmonious mix of religions, as seen by its stunning monuments. The Gangaramaya temple, which is one of the oldest Buddhist temples in Colombo, and Seema Malaka, a floating temple designed by architect Geoffrey Bawa, have great zen vibes. There is the Hindu temple Sri Kailawasanathar Swami Devasthanam, the oldest in the city, and the stunning Red Mosque (Al Jamiul Alfar Masjid) located in Pettah. St Lucia’s Cathedral, the oldest parish church in Sri Lanka with stunning Renaissance architecture, is another place to see.

The city has a vibrant mix of places that make it interesting for people of all kinds of interests. Like the Dutch Hospital Shopping Precinct, which is now an upmarket retail space with eclectic dining options, local eateries, casual cafés, tea lounges and stores like Barefoot, as well as the famed restaurant Ministry of Crab. The terracotta-lined roofs here date to the Dutch period and have been renovated to become this upscale shopping market. This is also a great place to spend some time admiring the architecture and enjoying the local vibe of the city.

Sivasubramaniam Kajendran art work at City of Dreams, Colombo

And if architecture is on your mind, I suggest you book a slot for a guided tour at Number 11, the home of architect Geoffrey Bawa. This is an excellent guided tour that will give you an insight into the genius he was as well as how he manifested his fascination for black and white in his home and its décor.

After a busy day of exploring the city, I return to the newly launched City of Dreams at Cinnamon Life in the heart of the city. Overlooking the Indian Ocean, this stunning property is also an architectural delight. James Balmond, Creative Director of Balmond Studio, explains that the design has been inspired by everything from ancient Sinhalese culture, Amman grid frameworks, fractal geometry and prime numbers. The expansive space is home to a casino, a large retail space, the 113-key ultra-luxury Nüwa hotel under Melco’s flagship brand and the 687-key luxury hotel Cinnamon Life. A curated collection of signature dining experiences will ensure there is never a dull moment here. And browsing through the 1000-plus artworks here feels like you entered a 5-star art gallery. Colombo is changing, and the feel-good vibe of the charming city is unmissable. And if you are wondering where to go for your next holiday, this is where you must book your flight to.

Rao is a freelance writer and photographer based in Bengaluru.

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