In December 1975, a newspaper article mentioned India’s sari exports for the fiscal year 1974-75. Valued at just over Rs 7.5 crore—equivalent to roughly $9 million at the exchange rates then—the trade was presented as a modest yet meaningful achievement, with the sari securing a “permanent place in many a feminine wardrobe abroad” despite climatic differences and shifting global fashions.
The article painted a picture of an emerging sector. Cotton saris led the way, earning Rs 3.9 crore, bolstered by power loom greys shipped primarily to Bangladesh. Silk varieties secured nearly Rs 1.9 crore, with premium zari-bordered handlooms finding eager markets in Britain, Singapore, Malaysia, Kenya, and Mauritius. Art silk contributed Rs 1.7 crore. The tone was one of understated pride: a traditional garment quietly extending India’s cultural reach.
Half a century later, the scale has expanded dramatically, though challenges now loom large. Recent data shows sari exports fluctuating between $79 million and $83 million annually—a nominal nine-fold increase that reflects India’s evolution into a major textile exporter.
The composition, however, has shifted profoundly. Man-made fibres, dominated by polyester, now comprise over 70 per cent of the total, valued at around $56.7 million in the latest fiscal year. Dyed and printed polyester saris drive the bulk of this volume, favoured for their affordability and versatility. Cotton, once the undisputed leader, has seen its share erode, declining 13.3 per cent to $13 million amid competition from cheaper synthetics and global rivals. Silk, by contrast, has shown resilience, growing 14.5 per cent to $9.5 million, its luxury appeal undiminished.
Markets have broadened: Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Bangladesh, the United Arab Emirates, and Nepal remain key for volume-driven synthetics and cotton, tied to regional diaspora demand. Yet, the United States has quietly risen as the primary destination for high-value silk, underscoring the sari’s transformation into a heritage luxury item.
The sari transcends mere commerce; it is emotion incarnate. For generations of Indian women, draping its six yards is an intimate ritual—of grace on festive occasions, quiet strength in daily life, or solemnity at rites of passage. From Varanasi to Kanchipuram, artisans invest months in a single piece, their looms producing motifs that carry centuries of tradition: temple borders, Mughal jaals, or intricate pallus that whisper stories of heritage.
Abroad, it evokes profound nostalgia, a tangible thread connecting diaspora families to ancestral homes. This emotional depth makes the current trade headwinds particularly poignant. In 2025, escalating tariffs imposed by the Trump administration—reaching 50 per cent on many Indian goods—have delivered a sharp blow to labour-intensive sectors. Textiles, including premium silk saris destined for American buyers, face diminished competitiveness as duties inflate costs.
Exporters report delayed orders for high-end pieces; weavers in traditional clusters speak of uncertainty. The broader apparel trade to the United States has already registered declines, with production cuts rippling through small enterprises.
The contrast with 1975 is striking. Then, amid India’s tentative steps towards export promotion in a controlled economy, the sari represented budding opportunity—affordable cottons for neighbours, exquisite silks for distant admirers. Today, as protectionism resurfaces, that same garment confronts barriers that echo an earlier era of restrictions. Premium segments, which had fuelled recent growth, appear most at risk: a handwoven Banarasi or Kanjivaram, once a cherished purchase for diaspora weddings or cultural celebrations, may soon strain buyers’ budgets.
Yet, history suggests endurance. Exporters are exploring untapped markets in Africa and Latin America, while domestic consumption, fuelled by a growing middle class and renewed appreciation for handlooms, provides a sturdy buffer. Government initiatives promoting sustainable practices and geographical indications aim at safeguarding artisanal traditions. Diplomacy continues, seeking to mitigate tariff impacts through negotiation.
The newspaper article 50 years ago marvelled at the sari’s ability to transcend “climatic differences and surprising range of fashion trends”. Now, amid economic turbulence, it endures as more than fabric—a repository of memory, identity, and quiet resilience. The garment’s folds have weathered empires, partitions, and globalisation’s tides. In an era of fleeting policies, the sari remains a profound constant: emotion draped in elegance, defying time itself.
(Data for FY2023-24 and FY2024-25 were compiled from select 8-digit ITC-HS codes specific to saris, sourced from the Directorate General of Foreign Trade, Ministry of Commerce and Industry.)
Lekha Chakraborty is professor at the National Institute of Public Finance and Policy, New Delhi, and board member of IIPF World Forum of Public Finance, Munich. Pramod Sinha is research fellow II at NIPFP.