All of last week, our countless new fashion media companies and content creators have gone dizzy with delight broadcasting all the Indian references at Europe’s famous fashion week. The worshipped Italian label Prada presented its menswear show in Milan with models wearing Kolhapuri slippers. Louis Vuitton in Paris referenced so much of India, (Snakes and Ladders on the runway, Bijoy Jain as a model, and A.R. Rahman on the front row, with his music playing live) they should have just had their show at our Gateway. Ed Sheeran dropped a gorgeous new earworm in collaboration with our own rockstar Arijit Singh, and with superstar Shah Rukh Khan making a special appearance.
Has India arrived? Nope. Why? Because it never went anywhere anyway.
India has long been referenced by too many European fashion houses and luxury brands. Cartier famously made jewellery for Indian royals, much of which is still displayed in museums and celebrated as its most iconic pieces.
Christian Dior, Chanel (Karl Lagerfeld), Yves Saint Laurent and Dolce & Gabbana have referenced India in some collections. Louis Vuitton, under the great Indophile Yves Carcelle, commissioned dresses and scarves made from vintage Benarasi saris in 2010 designed by Marc Jacobs; I hold on to mine so sentimentally. Hermes launched a limited edition of silk saris for India in 2011. Christian Louboutin, another great lover of and consistent visitor to India, is often inspired by Indian designs in his collection, even collaborating with our very own Sabyasachi. And H&M had capsule collections across all its international stores first with Sabyasachi and then Anamika Khanna.
Our labels often showcase at international fashion weeks: Manish Arora was a regular two decades ago and a real toast to crazy kitschy India in Paris. He had opened his own store just off Rue St Honore, collaborated with Nespresso, Mac, and a whole host of big-ticket international brands then. Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta are now seasoned Paris Fashion Week-ers, dressing international celebrities like Beyonce.
Last week alone, the fabulous young label Kartik Research showed its collection at the Paris Men’s Fashion Week. RKive and Countrymade, two young labels I discovered only last year, have showrooms in Paris. Lauren Sanchez carried an Indian purse (Ahikoza by Namrata Karad) to her wedding, Ed Sheeran just purchased a Jaipur Watch Company timepiece (founder Gaurav Mehta says it underscores “the potential for Indian design to resonate with international audiences”), Manish Malhotra dressed Beyonce and Gucci made a sari-gown-lehenga spritz for Alia Bhatt.
But what does this new focus on India, especially by Dior (with their splendid show in Mumbai in 2023), Prada and Louis Vuitton, signal?
That India is an important market. That India, the world’s largest democracy and fifth largest economy, needs to stand up and consider itself as a major market. That it cannot thump its chest in political chauvinism on the one hand, and ask for concessions and increase tariffs on the other.
If one discounts jewellery and watches, and bridal wear, India has no great numbers to speak of in the world of luxury fashion. If one further discounts Louis Vuitton, Hermes and maybe Dior, no other European luxury label has any numbers to boast of from India.
What does India look like to the western brand? A giant marketplace but with small potential. A difficult place to do business thanks to difficult and ad-hoc policies. A confused and contrarian consumer where western labels are concerned, but one that reveres its local brands.
Some good, some not. But a worthy country to tease and tantalise one more time.
X@namratazakaria