My first taste of Nepal’s wholesome Thakali cuisine came four years ago at an eatery in Delhi’s Majnu ka Tila—the ‘it’ place for Himalayan cuisine. Similar to the traditional Indian thali, the Thakali thali came with a generous portion of black dal, rice, gundruk, potato wedges, pickles and chutneys—making for a killer ‘soul’ food. Ever since, it has been my go-to place whenever I crave something healthy and hearty.
Despite sharing a border and centuries of cross-cultural exchange, Nepalese cuisine is little known in India. There’s one major exception: momos, though its origin, however, is contested. That’s undergoing a change.
While some Himalayan-themed restaurants serve Thakali cuisine, Jimbu Thakali, one of the most popular restaurants in Nepal, has now become a major entrant in the space. It has recently opened its first international outlet at M3M IFC, Sector 66, Gurugram.
“Indian food has long been popular in Nepal, but Nepali cuisine hasn't reached India to the same extent,” says founder Vivek Sherchan, on the idea behind opening a restaurant in India.
“Momos changed that. They proved that Indian consumers are open to Nepali flavours.”
A taste of Nepal
The menu at Jimbu Thakali is extensive. There are momos and soups, Nepali pizza, and a Jimbu burger. And right in the middle is the Thakali thali. It consists of an expansive assortment of black dal, rice, a protein dish, gundruk sadeko, fried bitter gourd, pickle, chutney and jimbu aloo.
Jimbu is an aromatic chive central to the staple food that is daal bhat.
While not extraordinarily striking, the flavours are balanced and make for a hearty meal, typical of a Thakali thali.
What is Thakali?
The cuisine was developed by the Thakali ethnic group, primarily traders of salt and silk, belonging to the Thak Khola valley of Mustang in north-central Nepal. It features a combination of rice, lentils, vegetables, meat and pickles.
“Historically, the Thakali people became famous for running exceptionally clean kitchens and inns along Nepal's old trade routes. Travellers always knew they could stop at a Thakali establishment and expect good, hygienic food,” explains Sherchan.
It became a staple meal along highway eateries in upper Nepal, before making its way into Kathmandu and now entering India.
A slice of Nepal
With Jimbu Thakali, Sherchan has not only brought the flavours, but also a slice of Nepal to India.
Heavily drawing from the traditional Newari architecture, the interior is beautifully done with red terracotta and wooden carvings.
“My family lives in Nepal, so if you visit places like Bhaktapur or Kirtipur, you'll still find this architecture everywhere. The carved wooden windows, the panels,” he says.
There are beautiful mandala artworks on display and Tibetan carpets, showcasing Nepal’s role as a melting pot of Hinduism and Buddhism, on one hand, and its ties with Tibet, on the other.
“I didn't want people to feel that they had simply visited a restaurant. I wanted them to experience a little bit of Nepal,” he says.
And it clicks. The space feels warm and inviting, somewhere one can spend a good amount of time, experiencing the food, as well as understanding the culture.
India in focus
India is the first international expansion for the restaurant. While India holds “enormous potential”, Sherchan is also planning to expand in New York.
India, however, remains the primary focus. Speaking of expansion here, the founder says that a central kitchen works best for the brand.
“As we grow in India, we'll establish central kitchens to support multiple outlets. Once that system is in place, expanding becomes much easier,” he says.
“That's the long-term plan.”
