Nature has a way of reminding us that history is not just carved in stone and scratched on parchment. History lives in DNA sequences and in the stories of species—discovered, undiscovered and extinct. Last week, researchers announced the discovery of seven new species in the genus Nyctibatrachus. In English, these are night frogs. And, miniature ones (12.2–15.4mm).
Researchers led by Dr S.D. Biju, from the Systematics Lab at the University of Delhi, found them in the Western Ghats. And, two came from places visited by thousands annually. The Athirappilly Night Frog was discovered near the Athirappilly waterfalls, where a hydroelectric project has been proposed. And, the Sabarimala Night Frog near the renowned forest shrine of Lord Ayyappa. Night frogs are endemic to the Ghats.
So, there is magic underfoot in Kerala. Unless one believes, magic never comes alive. Every tourist must believe that he can make a difference by being responsible.
Here’s a selection of off-beat places in Kerala dear to THE WEEK’s editorial gang. From Fort Bekal to Silent Valley to Athirappilly to beaches in Mararikulam and Nattika, these are places you’ll love. Tread lightly. Leave only a faint footprint. Best if you leave none at all. Cheers!
NATTIKA
BY ANJULY MATHAI
IT WAS RAINING heavily when we went to Nattika, a harsh wind lashing the coast. Afterwards, the sky was tinged grey, and the earth, battered by the relentless rain, lay still and unmoving. Even so, the beauty of Nattika beach was unmarred—everything serene and supple. As you go towards the beach, the land is ringed by a few huts made of mud and palm leaves that lead to a vast swath of coconut groves. The beach itself is cradled in quietness, unlike the touristy beaches of Kovalam and Varkala. Life trudges along slowly, like an award-winning documentary film—a lone fisherman pulling in his net, a couple stepping out of their shack, a young girl flouncing along, a group of youngsters standing by a broken boat…
One of them told me that after the fishing season ended, there was nothing for the fishermen to do. “The government doesn’t even let us play cards even though we’ve been doing it for years,” he said. “Some of us have left this seashore for the Gulf countries to make money. But the peculiar thing about the rest of us is that we’ll never leave here or change our professions, no matter how dire our situation.”
Nattika beach is a three-kilometre stretch of beach located around 25 kilometres from Thrissur. This is where the famous Malayalam film Chemmeen, the first from south India to win the president’s gold medal for the best film, was shot.
If you plan to stay in Nattika, then head to the beautiful Nattika Beach Ayurveda Resort. It is fantastically designed with the lawns interspersed with lush coconut trees, lit up at night, and the pristine beach providing the perfect backdrop for the Ayurveda and yoga sessions. Nattika is only 60 kilometres from the Cochin International Airport. If you believe that peace is something that comes only with an environment that facilitates it, then Nattika is the place you’ve been searching for.
Reel to real: Meesapulimala gained fame after getting featured in a Malayalam film | Sajan Munnar
MEESAPULIMALA
BY REUBEN JOE JOSEPH
EVEN IN THE age of viral videos, memes and trends, it is fascinating that a solitary film dialogue could spark a new adventure fad. All it took was a mere mention—in the Malayalam movie Charlie—of a trekking experience at Meesapulimala for the hill to attain a cult status among the youth of south India.
Standing at 8,660ft in Kerala’s Idukki district, Meesapulimala—literally Whiskered Tiger Hill—is the third highest peak in the Western Ghats and the highest trekkable one. The peaks of Anamudi (8,842ft) and Mannamalai (8,724ft) are higher but inaccessible.
Recognised as a trekker’s paradise even before the release of the movie, Meesapulimala is 42km from the famous hill station, Munnar. Tour guides at the hill say that they have witnessed a landslide of visitors (pun intended) ever since the Dulquer Salmaan-starrer set the trend.
Situated on the border of the two southernmost Indian states, Meesapulimala attracts trekkers and picnickers to the breathtaking view it offers. Barring the odd misty day, the trek is an absolute visual treat. Though the climb is tricky at times, it is sheer joy watching a sunrise above the sea of clouds and traversing the lush green fields, murmuring brooks and tea plantations on your way to the windy summit.
It isn’t only Charlie that has but a tiny connection to this hill. The mesmerising view has made it an excellent location for film directors to shoot their typical romantic numbers—one example being the song Titli from Bollywood blockbuster Chennai Express.
The hill can be accessed only with prior permission of the Kerala forest authorities, though a route via Tamil Nadu is said to have reopened recently. Resorts and campsites are available when trekking from Kerala, and these have to be booked much in advance, owing to demand.
But what about that long name? Locals say that the access to the peak was once controlled by a tribal leader who heroically hunted tigers on the hill, hence it was called his ‘mala’ (hill). Some others say that the name is such because the peak resembles a tiger’s visage from the villages below. Nevertheless, trekkers can rest assured that they will not come face to face with an actual tiger.
Serene sea: The Mararikulam beach is one of the less crowded ones in Kerala | Sanjoy Ghosh
MARARIKULAM
BY MATHEW T. GEORGE
A BRAHMINY KITE wheels over the waterline, looking for breakfast. The gentle green swell wears a flounce of lace. The sand is ivory and records visitors by their footprints—crab, heron and man.
Up to his armpits in the sea, Das waits. As the bulge of a swell shows, he raises his arms, pirouettes and lets the net fly. The catch is mostly shrimp and small fry. This is a tableau being played on beaches across India. So, what’s special about Mararikulam beach in Alappuzha, Kerala?
“I prefer this beach to the main beach in Alappuzha and the more famous Varkala,” said Paul Delmas, 66, from France. “It is not as crowded with tourists. We can swim closer to the shore. The beach here is wider than the one in Varkala. And, almost no one stares when a woman in a two-piece walks by.” As we walk off the beach, fresh catch is on auction. “Arunooru, arunooru, arunootambathu [0600, 600, 650]...,” the auctioneer calls out sonorously. If you are a regular, you get 10 bucks off on every 100.
There are at least two big resorts in Mararikulam; homestays are mushrooming. The beach town has its own railhead and, on a good day, a two-hour drive from Cochin International Airport.
CHALAKUDY-VALPARAI
BY REUBEN JOE JOSEPH
IN GOD’S OWN Country, a drive along the countryside is an unmatched experience. The rich flora and fauna that the state is synonymous with are best witnessed on the winding roads that are lined with coconut, rubber and eucalyptus trees.
One particular stretch that embodies the beauty of the countryside is the route from Chalakudy in Kerala that heads west to Tamil Nadu’s Valparai. This 107-km journey provides a multitude of natural wonders: waterfalls, wildlife, rivers, forests, tea estates, open fields, tiny islands, valleys, dams and incredible views from cliffs.
Traversing the road to Athirappilly, I spotted a few mud houses along the way. As someone who has always yearned for a life far away from the bustle of cities, I could not help but feel a tinge of jealousy towards the residents of those little houses, knowing the vast expanse of nature’s finest that lay beyond.
The Athirappilly falls, on this route, is a well-known tourist attraction, but most visitors to Kerala turn around after visiting the gushing cascade, thinking that the road ends there. What they don’t realise is that the equally charming Vazhachal falls lies ahead, before the rain forests of Sholayur that lead to more of nature’s goodness.
The canopy eventually gives way to enchanting views from the Sholayar dam before one crosses over to Tamil Nadu. All along, tea plantations are spread out across the landscape, and the food and chai served at roadside shacks keep you satisfied both mentally and physically.
One can choose to lodge at the town of Valparai or drive on to reach Pollachi. The route to Pollachi, it is said, has a mind-boggling 41 hairpin curves. More spectacular viewpoints are guaranteed, but this extension of the journey is definitely not for the faint hearted.
The wildlife on the road to Valparai are a hazard, but also add to the charm of the trip. Elephants strolling across the narrow road, cattle grazing on sprawling green fields, birds of different kinds singing their hearts out and a variety of butterflies fluttering among the trees. And, of course, the troops of cheeky langurs.
The route also has two water theme parks closer to Athirappilly—Dream World and Silver Storm—to enthral both children by age and children at heart.
While on this trail, make sure you roll down your windows and let the heavenliness sink in, on what is said to be one of south India’s best courses. Take this trip between June and July, to derive the best out of the experience, else the unfavourable weather could let you down.
